avatar_McColm

Paint stripper for plastic model kits, what do you suggest ?

Started by McColm, August 25, 2013, 12:33:58 AM

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Librarian

I've always used Halfords brake oil/fluid. Put it in a metal container, chuck in the part and leave for several days. Even takes off primer. Wear rubber/latex gloves, remove occasionally and scrub with an old toothbrush. Not quick but very successful.

Rheged

Quote from: PR19_Kit on October 01, 2013, 12:51:18 AM
Quote from: puddingwrestler on September 30, 2013, 11:55:31 PM
Dettol. Bathe for about 12 hours, and then use a toothbrush to scrub it down. Unlike oven cleaner, you will not get any chemical burns, and don't need saftey equipment.

And the model will be wholly germ-free.  ;D :lol:

.........and extremely pungent!!
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dumaniac

hey puddingwrestler - didn't know about dettol - will have to give that a go.  It also deadly on cane toads in Queensland - kills them in about 5 seconds - but watch out for the animal welfare crowd - great for keeping cane toads out of backyards where pets and toddlers might be a risk - and your yard smells really clean too  - so the story goes - of course I have never done anything like that

dumaniac

and about brake fluid - I don't like it because as soon as it gets on my skin - I get a dreadful taste in my mouth (even though my hand has not touched my mouth) and the taste stays for a fair while - it might just be me

NARSES2

Quote from: dumaniac on October 01, 2013, 02:43:05 AM
hey puddingwrestler - didn't know about dettol - will have to give that a go.  It also deadly on cane toads in Queensland - kills them in about 5 seconds -

Are we talking about Dettol the household disinfectant ??  :blink: Or is this another case of a UK brand name not being the same product overseas ?
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kerick

Simple Green detergent works well in a couple days and is safer to use. I've also used store brand degreaser detergents. Just fill a plastic bowl big enough to hold what you want to strip and dunk the parts in. Leave it for a few days, the thicker the paint, the longer to let it sit. This also removes the "chrome" from plastic parts. This is a lot less smelly and nasty.
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Steel Penguin

Dettol disinfectant  the brown smelly stuff that goes cloudy in water,  as far as I know.  one warning with it is when you take the parks oot the paint can go all slimey/bobbley if not quickly cleaned off
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puddingwrestler

Yes, that kind of Dettol.
YOu use it neat instead of diluting it. YOu need to keep the parts soaking for at least 12 hours, and when you scrub then, keep dunking them back in to keep the paint loose. If you wash the model in water, the paint goes slimey and won't come off until soaked again.
I wear gloves while doing this, as apparently it can dry the skin, but otherwise it's basically not dangerous, and you can re-use it on more models. Eventually it loses it's potency (or so I am told, I've only been doing this for a few weeks), and you get a sediment of stripped paint settling at the bottom of the jar.
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Mossie

I'll have to give Dettol a try, the company that makes it is few miles away from me.  I had my first job there and if the company shop is as good as it used to be, I have a freind that works there and can get me the stuff for bargain prices.
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NARSES2

Quote from: Steel Penguin on October 01, 2013, 11:25:53 AM
Dettol disinfectant  the brown smelly stuff that goes cloudy in water,

Well I'll be .......... :blink: Only ever used it for cleaning the kitchen if things got a bit "nasty"  :rolleyes:
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

silverwindblade

Another recommendation for Fairy Power Spray. I've used it to clean paint off of models and save paint jobs or whole models more than once. It's also relatively easy to get hold of, and as long as you avoid too much 'flicking' when you clear the resulting mess after soaking off of the model, it's easy.

Also, Tesco do a 'multipurpose cleaner' in their value range. I've only used it once after a recommendation on another forum, but it works all right - you have to soak the whole model in it overnight (at least), but it works well enough. Plus it's dirt cheap.
I'd stick with the Power Spray though. You don't need to use a lot of it, and it doesn't take long.
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Father Ennis

As most folks know,I have been using oven cleaner for decades now. I've never found anything as good plus they now make "scented oven cleaner" that isn't so toxic and can be done inside. Using a glass or plastic container, cover the parts with a good coat ,let set for a hour and then wash with soap and warm water. Repeat if needed .   Low cost, minimal work and readily available,too a win win situation.

zenrat

Brake fluid does not "attack plastic" but leaches out the plasticisers which leaves the styrene brittle and more prone to snapping parts off if you scrub too vigorously.
The rate at which embrittlement occurs however varies.  Some will be OK left in the stuff for months (I went on holiday) while other will be affected in a week.
However, I've never had anything get so brittle it has collapsed when touched.  Just be more gentle.
Resin left in brake fluid will turn into jelly.  Don't do it.
Vinyl tyres contain a lot of plasticiser and so will shrink by a surprising amount as it leaches out (this can be useful).  Solid vinyl tyres will split as they do so.
The brake fluid will also make any filler or putty fall out and will also loosen styrene cement joints (again, this can be useful).
Fred

- Can't be bothered to do the proper research and get it right.

Another ill conceived, lazily thought out, crudely executed and badly painted piece of half arsed what-if modelling muppetry from zenrat industries.

zenrat industries:  We're everywhere...for your convenience..