Nick's Notes

[The Wooksta!]

Can't get Scalemates on the Mac I use but from memory, quite probably.

But apparently if's whiffworld and you can do anything.  Even though I always think it's a lazy way of cheating and what it really says is "I can't be bothered to do the proper research and get it right."

I might have a spare set of the SAM sheet somewhere. The roundels may be shot but the letters/codes could still be okay.

[Nick]

Can't get Scalemates on the Mac I use but from memory, quite probably.

But apparently if's whiffworld and you can do anything.  Even though I always think it's a lazy way of cheating and what it really says is "I can't be bothered to do the proper research and get it right."

I might have a spare set of the SAM sheet somewhere. The roundels may be shot but the letters/codes could still be okay.

Thanks but don't worry about it. I'll focus on building this beast first.

[NARSES2]

In other news: I am self-isolating for the next 4 days.
The Covid app pinged just now and says I've been in close contact with someone who has Covid so no going anywhere for the next 4 days. Must have been somebody on the Tube for me to have been near them for more than 15 minutes. Typically this is happening at the start of my 'shift weekend' so I only gain one extra day off.

Apparently if you are pinged by the Covid app it's only advisory, but if the Test and Trace people get hold of you it's a legal requirement. Just been on the lunchtime News.  I don't get it either, but that's the law ?

[Dizzyfugu]

That "green-blue" Neptune cammo does IMHO not look THAT garish in real life - even though this is apperently a museum exhibit so the tones might not be authentic:



Almost looks like light slate grey (Humbrol 31) and Dark Sea Grey or FS 35164 (Humbrol 164 or 144)?

[Dizzyfugu]

As an addendum, I found a color reference for this scheme:

[The Wooksta!]

Looks like an almost RAF scheme.

Blackbird did a sheet for Argentinian Neptunes, which may be current. Check his website. He's got at least one on his eBay store.

I've a feeling I may have the Xtradecal as a partial sheet but can't check for a few days. Yours if I find it.

[Nick]

I had a frustrating afternoon while trying to mask up a pair of Phantoms for SEA camo. They've been sat by the side for 5 years now so I want them out of the way, plus they'll look good together at Telford.

Problem 1: The white tack I was using wouldn't adhere to the model. It was cheap and old but still stuck to my fingers and tools instead. 
Problem 2: The drawing I'm looking at doesn't line up between the different side and overhead views. https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/f-4/f-4_profile02.shtml

Life is too short for this hassle. So I ordered a set of LF Models SEA camo masks from Hannants.

[Nick]

I spent some time last night playing with the LF masks for the Vietnam Phantoms. It requires serious thinking about before putting anything down. The instructions are an A6 sheet which has a colour diagram of a Phantom and little red dotted areas to show which part goes where.

Trouble is that you can barely see the numbers on the actual mask sheet. These are 2 A6 pieces of Oramask 810 which apparently is mildly tacky but from what I can gather online it should not be left on for more than 2 days.

I also need to work out the order to take off or put on each mask. I'm working on the basis of cover up the tan areas, spray the light green parts, then cover those and spray the dark green.

[DogfighterZen]

I also need to work out the order to take off or put on each mask. I'm working on the basis of cover up the tan areas, spray the light green parts, then cover those and spray the dark green.

That's how i did the SEA camo on my Phantom and F-5.

[Nick]

As it turns out after some trial and error and much guesswork, you are meant to spray the light green first and then the tan. Which makes this job a lot harder and a lot less fun.

If LF Models are at Telford please restrain me from throwing spray cans or using Anglo-Saxon language on them.... 

[JayBee]

If LF Models are at Telford please restrain me from throwing spray cans or using Anglo-Saxon language on them.... 

No Nick why should we. 

[Nick]

The same may apply for Aussie Decals 

I'm finishing off the 1/144 Tornado F.3 using an old set of RAAF Hornet markings. These are teeny tiny and many of you couldn't see them let alone handle them. They are at the edge of my skill and patience levels.

Firstly they are printed on ALPS as a single sheet so you have to cut out each bit. But it's a tiny sheet with 3 aircraft options so you don't get any extra space around the decals to cut with care or to handle them once out of the water.
They are also extremely delicate and break up faster than the Titanic hitting the iceberg. I've had to chuck the aircraft serials, the underwing Roos are barely there and the spine markings have Scoliosis.

I'm also using a set of Dragon decals that must be 25 years old and almost as fragile. I've thrown out half the sheet already. Just using little bits of red warnings to give some life to the model.

Tomorrow I shall paint the cockpit and canopy, the wheels and exhaust, and consider a spine colour.

[NARSES2]

Like me you've obviously been a naughty boy in a past life mate 

[Pellson]

The same may apply for Aussie Decals 

I'm finishing off the 1/144 Tornado F.3 using an old set of RAAF Hornet markings. These are teeny tiny and many of you couldn't see them let alone handle them. They are at the edge of my skill and patience levels.

Firstly they are printed on ALPS as a single sheet so you have to cut out each bit. But it's a tiny sheet with 3 aircraft options so you don't get any extra space around the decals to cut with care or to handle them once out of the water.
They are also extremely delicate and break up faster than the Titanic hitting the iceberg. I've had to chuck the aircraft serials, the underwing Roos are barely there and the spine markings have Scoliosis.

I'm also using a set of Dragon decals that must be 25 years old and almost as fragile. I've thrown out half the sheet already. Just using little bits of red warnings to give some life to the model.

Tomorrow I shall paint the cockpit and canopy, the wheels and exhaust, and consider a spine colour.

I once had an absolutely marvellous bottle of liquid decal film that I used to reinforce brittle decals like these. It worked a treat! Maybe you can find something similar?

As for mine - after maybe 20 years, the plastic bottle suddenly and catastrophically broke, and this is no more.
I have unfortunately not been able to find a replacement yet. No one even seems to know what I'm talking about, at it hasn't been possible to ship something in from abroad either. These antiterrorist rules.. 
Anyway - tips on what I should try to get would be appreciated. As would tips on European sources. 

[PR19_Kit]

Spray-on clear acrylic varnish works pretty well to keep decals in one piece.

I use it on my home printed decals and it works a treat.