avatar_The Rat

Okay, I'll try

Started by The Rat, March 04, 2014, 08:22:49 AM

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The Rat

Have this old Advent (ex Revell if my sources are correct) Skywarrior that I've had an idea for since I got it, this may give me the incentive. The ambitious part of this would be constructing spinners and prop blades, because what I would love to do is get rid of the engine pylons, move the pods directly onto the wings, and give it contra-props. That will really tax my skills, so it may not happen exactly that way. What I most probably will do is turn the nose cone into a typically Russian glass nose, I've already sprayed it with primer and roughly penciled in where the plastic will probably be carved out.

Here is the starboard side and underside:



And the port side and top:

"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought, cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives." Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

Life is too short to worry about perfection

Youtube: https://tinyurl.com/46dpfdpr

Dizzyfugu

That's ambitious! Carving out the stuff might not be the biggest challenge - I'd be afraid of the clear inserts!  :blink:

Sounds like a nice project. IIRC, there actually were one or two swept-wing turboprop designs for the USN after WWII (including a Cutlass with two propellers and a tail turret!  :blink:) - it would certainly look great in a Midnight Blue livery?

For props and spinner, I might suggest the investment of a few bucks into a Playfix Tu-20 bomber of GDR production. Can be found at ebay and provides you with wonderful engines for about 1:72 scale.

kerick

Instead of carving and then making inserts why not vacuform a clear nose and then paint on the frames? Perhaps someone here could help with the vacuforming if you don't have one. For the nose you have there you may be able to heat some plastic and pull it down over the nosecone to form it.
" Somewhere, between half true, and completely crazy, is a rainbow of nice colours "
Tophe the Wise

The Rat

Quote from: kerick on March 04, 2014, 10:24:10 AM
Instead of carving and then making inserts why not vacuform a clear nose and then paint on the frames? Perhaps someone here could help with the vacuforming if you don't have one. For the nose you have there you may be able to heat some plastic and pull it down over the nosecone to form it.

Was thinking about that. Or I might increase the number of panels, which would decrease their size, and that way if I use white glue or Kristal Klear the lack of curvature won't be as noticable.
"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought, cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives." Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

Life is too short to worry about perfection

Youtube: https://tinyurl.com/46dpfdpr

kerick

How big is that piece? It looks small enough for the heat and mash method.
" Somewhere, between half true, and completely crazy, is a rainbow of nice colours "
Tophe the Wise

Captain Canada

Good idea Ratty ! Either road you take....I'm sure it'll turn out awesome !

:tornado:
CANADA KICKS arse !!!!

Long Live the Commonwealth !!!
Vive les Canadiens !
Where's my beer ?

The Rat

Quote from: kerick on March 04, 2014, 05:23:25 PM
How big is that piece? It looks small enough for the heat and mash method.

It fits over my finger like a thimble. Never tried the heat and smash method, but could give it a shot. Any particular techniques?
"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought, cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives." Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

Life is too short to worry about perfection

Youtube: https://tinyurl.com/46dpfdpr

kerick

Mount the nose piece on a sturdy rod that can be held in a vice or clamped to be nice and stable. Put on gloves! Heat a larger than you think you need plastic sheet over something with more heat than a candle, then pull the sheet down over the nose piece until you are tight all the way around the base. Let it cool for a few minutes and cut to fit. Be prepared to try this a couple of times so you can get the hang of it. Works well if you have plastic sheet a little thicker than you would like the finished piece to be as it will stretch over the mold and come out thinner. Wear gloves!!!! I haven't tried clear plastic but it works well with regular sheet styrene. I've heard of people using clear food packaging or clear pop bottles. Perhaps someone here can expand on that. Oh, and wear gloves, trust me.
" Somewhere, between half true, and completely crazy, is a rainbow of nice colours "
Tophe the Wise

The Rat

Okay, I'll try that.


Should I wear gloves?
"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought, cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives." Hedley Lamarr, Blazing Saddles

Life is too short to worry about perfection

Youtube: https://tinyurl.com/46dpfdpr

Old Wombat

Only on your hands......... Unless, of course, you use other parts of your anatomy to move the hot plastic, in which case you should wear the gloves there. :blink:

:cheers:

Guy
Has a life outside of What-If & wishes it would stop interfering!

"The purpose of all War is Peace" - St. Augustine

veritas ad mortus veritas est