What's the best way to store your decals?

McColm · May 27, 2014, 02:55:57 AM

Hi Guys,
I am running out of storage space for unbuilt kits so I've taken the kits out of their boxes and grouped them together in plastic storage boxes with a list taped to the front so I know what's inside.
I've got some lose decals and was wondering how best to store them. My room has central heating and is never damp.

zenrat · May 27, 2014, 03:47:01 AM

I keep mine in a folder inside those a4 plastic sleeves designed to hold loose sheets of paper without punching holes in them.

Mossie · May 27, 2014, 04:48:06 AM

Quote from: McColm on May 27, 2014, 02:55:57 AM
My room has central heating and is never damp.

That's good planning, mine are in a garage and not so well protected. However, I've one lot in a plastic container, which I've put some of those silica gel bean-bags (the ones that you get packaged with some items to keep them moisture free) and they've never suffered from the damp. Some others in an old kit box stored in exactly the same place have been damaged by damp, so it works.

Hobbes · May 27, 2014, 04:49:35 AM

Whatever you do, mak sure the translucent cover sheet stays on top of the decals. If that's gone, the decals will stick to anything that's on top of them over time.

McColm · May 27, 2014, 04:58:50 AM

Thanks for your replies.

Dizzyfugu · May 27, 2014, 05:34:00 AM

I have been using old cookie boxes, made from metal sheet, for almost 40 years. Works very well for me, since I have some decals that are surely 20 or more years old and they are still in top shape. Even without the protective wax paper - I guess it is a matter of air humidity in general. A safe, dry place should be used in general, I would not recommend a garage, cellar or uninsulated roof room.

Nigel Bunker · May 28, 2014, 05:51:25 AM

The best way I have found to store decals is in zip lock plastic bags. They get a constant environment and are protected in case of accidental water damage. I buy mine by the hundred quite cheaply from a "well known internet auction site".

NARSES2 · May 28, 2014, 07:21:40 AM

Zip lock bags (from probably the same site as Nigel - I have enough for 100 years

) and then in plastic boxs with clip down lids I get from £1 store, for guess how much ?

I've some old Almark general transfers and others for specific aircraft I got from BMW's in Wimbledon (how many years ago ?) and they are still perfectly usuable

zenrat · May 29, 2014, 02:24:00 AM

I think the most important thing, if you are whiffing, is the ability to flick through them when looking for inspiration.
This does mean removing the wax paper but i've had no issues with stickage.
I keep my folder in the house in the warm and dry (in the book case so there is no pressure on top of it which may help prevent stickage) and all the odds and ends from half used sheets live in the shed in an AMT model tin with a handful of those silica gel capsules they put in vitamin pill tubs. The shed gets damp in the winter but so far the decals in the tin have survived OK.

NARSES2 · May 29, 2014, 03:59:28 AM

As per Zenrat most of my transfer sheets lack the wax paper but are kept in a warm/dry area and likewise have no weight on them. No problems over the years with sticking. I think the main cause of that is damp ?

Mossie · May 29, 2014, 04:54:16 AM

I've had problems with old decals sticking to their own paper on occasion. I tend to remove it so it's not stuck in the first place, then replace it.

zenrat · September 08, 2016, 02:34:52 AM

Woooooooo! Necromancy...

Ignoring the warning* I shall resurrect this thread as it's probably most relevant to my question and that's the sort of bloke I am - I just don't care!. Yeah baby, anarchy...

I have been given some rather old Allmark decals which I want to use on a build. They haven't yellowed but first time I tried to use them they disintegrated. Any tips on resurrecting them? I plan to try giving some of them a coat of the Testors Decal Sealer I use when I print my own decals but is there anything else I should try?
Future for example?

*Which I don't recall seeing previously. Is it part of the upgrade or should I stop the use of aluminium cookware immediately?

PR19_Kit · September 08, 2016, 04:58:20 AM

I've used Future/Klear with success on self-destructing decals before now. I brushed mine on, but very lightly to avoid the scraps of decal being dragged by the brushing action, but I suspect spraying may work better.

Dizzyfugu · September 08, 2016, 05:20:54 AM

I've used Metalizer varnish successfully on suspicious, old decals. Turned out to be more stable than acryllic varnish, which I also tried. Both work (for me), but the Metalizer stuff is the best option so far.

NARSES2 · September 08, 2016, 07:14:30 AM

As per Kit I've used light coats of Future/Klear in the past with good results.

Quote from: zenrat on September 08, 2016, 02:34:52 AM

*Which I don't recall seeing previously. Is it part of the upgrade or should I stop the use of aluminium cookware immediately?

No we used to get it, although the threshold may have changed.

Allmark (always type Altmark

) takes me back. Still have and use some RAF roundels sheets I got at BMW's in Wimbledon almost 50 years ago now

?

Think one of my Swastika sheets may be Allmark as well