Zenrat's Flying Circus

[zenrat]

Today I finished masking the glazing on the Do.17 (Eduard pre-cut set - still hate masking but this way is easier) and then gave it a squirt with my usual light grey primer.
The exposed clear parts crazed like buggery.  Not the first time this has happened but it is a fairly rare occurrence so I forget it might happen and don't put on a first primer coat of Tamiya FSP.   
Rest of the styrene is OK.  Only the clear has reacted.  I am hoping the colour coat levels it out somewhat 'cause I certainly ain't sanding it.

[NARSES2]

Fingers crossed for you mate 

[zenrat]

Re. the flying pencil;
I have brushed on some Mr Surface Primer (a variant of Mr Surfacer it seems - hard to tell as i don't read Japanese*) over the exposed crazed clear areas and it has improved things.
Another coat might be needed but I don't want to end up with massively raised canopy frames.


*yes, yes I know my phone can read it for me.   But i'm old and forget about such mod cons.

[The Wooksta!]

Once the canopy is masked, I always paint it by hand with the internal frame colour and then prime over the top. Never had a crazing issue.

[zenrat]

I don't bother about using the internal colour first on the glazing.  I've never looked at a model in the one true scale and noticed it has been done.
However it could have prevented the crazing.
I'm wondering if I neglected to shake the (rattle) can of primer enough and what came out was more solvent than usual.  Could that happen?
Anyway, i'm happy with what i've done to deal with the crazing and work can progress.
It's probably going to be in Seenotdienst (air sea rescue) service.  Unarmed in a standard splinter pattern with white recognition bands and red crosses painted over the Balkenkreuzes.

[NARSES2]

*yes, yes I know my phone can read it for me.  But i'm old and forget about such mod cons.

I wasn't even aware of that 

I'm wondering if I neglected to shake the (rattle) can of primer enough and what came out was more solvent than usual.  Could that happen?

It would answer a question from me of a long time ago as well.

Anyway, i'm happy with what i've done to deal with the crazing and work can progress.

That's the whole point of the exercise so 

[Wardukw]

To the shaking of the can lads..yes is your answer..the paint sits at the bottom of the can and if ya read the instructions most cans say to either shake very well foe a couple minutes or something close to that.
When I'm spraying with cans I shake them in-between each pass ..just a couple or more..keeps the paint mixed .
There's the warm water trick I use in winter and then I shake nine colours of crap out of it 😄
That's probably what happened Fred..thinner first and then very thinned out paint because they didn't mix at the get go.

[scooter]

To the shaking of the can lads..yes is your answer..the paint sits at the bottom of the can and if ya read the instructions most cans say to either shake very well foe a couple minutes or something close to that.

Or you're a lazy b@st@rd and you get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/spray-paint-can-shaker/s?k=spray+paint+can+shaker

Family owned, local (to my parents' house) hardware store I worked at my senior year of high school used to, if they knew the customer, stick the Rustoleum/Krylon spray cans in the gallon agitator for a few minutes.

[Wardukw]

To the shaking of the can lads..yes is your answer..the paint sits at the bottom of the can and if ya read the instructions most cans say to either shake very well foe a couple minutes or something close to that.

Or you're a lazy b@st@rd and you get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/spray-paint-can-shaker/s?k=spray+paint+can+shaker

Family owned, local (to my parents' house) hardware store I worked at my senior year of high school used to, if they knew the customer, stick the Rustoleum/Krylon spray cans in the gallon agitator for a few minutes.

Hahaha ..why am I not surprised Scoot 
Shaking the cans like that works great until it hits the shelf for a while ..then needs shaking again .
What I do is shake..spray..shake..spray until I'm done..be it a model or things alot bigger ..the method don't change and I'm always getting good results..so glad when I got told this I listened 

[zenrat]

I shake 'em for a good thirty seconds before I use them for the first time but then tend to just give a quick one off the wrist each time I use them after that.
I must not be so lazy.

Before completing final PSR touches on the Do.17 (there are a few - not sure whether to blame Airfix or my assembly) I am sorting out the float mountings.  I'm using the Ju.52 struts which will need some modification and additions due to the Junkers being a low wing aircraft and the Dornier high wing.

The WOT8 is coming along.  Cab interior has to be painted, detailed and weathered before closing it up so i'm doing that.  I think my example must have been either a Monday morning or a Friday afternoon kit as on addition to it having had the wrong sprues I have now discovered that the transfers are missing.   
Not a major issue but I could have done with those for the instruments.
It's obviously not my week as yesterday while grokking a Roden 1/72 bus kit in my stash I realised it has no clear sprue.  Something I missed when I got it too long ago to do anything about.   
But again, not a major issue as they are all flat and I can cut them from some clear.

[zenrat]

WOT8 WIP 23-08-23 by Fred Maillardet, on Flickr

[NARSES2]

Coming along nicely 

[Old Wombat]

Looking rather spiffing, WOT!  

[zenrat]

Rather!

Detail is very nice.  Fit of the cab could be better.  Particularly the doors.

[Rheged]

Rather!

Detail is very nice.  Fit of the cab could be better.  Particularly the doors.

I showed this to a friend of mine who is restoring a WW2  vehicle.   His view is that the original doors on his  K2 ambulance  were a lousy fit when manufactured. It may possibly be that the kit producer is trying to reflect this.  He (and I)  also send our compliments on a good looking piece of work