Zenrat's Flying Circus

[kerick]

When you're done there come over to my house!

[zenrat]

And...





...relax.

Work finished until 29th Dec.  All shopping done.  Beer and bulls**t session with neighbours completed.  I can now enjoy the next five days.

[Rick Lowe]

And...





...relax.

Work finished until 29th Dec.  All shopping done.  Beer and bulls**t session with neighbours completed.  I can now enjoy the next five days.

[zenrat]

Had a female relative who lives alone round for xmas eve dinner.  Got her pissed.
While driving her home I was informed that as an atheist I shouldn't get time off and should have to go to work tomorrow.

[PR19_Kit]

What would you do in a totally empty Post Office with NO customers?

[NARSES2]

What would you do in a totally empty Post Office with NO customers?

My lawyer has advised me that I shouldn't comment on that question even rhetorically 

[Old Wombat]

I wonder why she lives alone?


I classify myself as an "agnostic atheist", as I'm not going to deny the existence of "God" if I have proof-positive* dumped in my lap or shoved in my face.




[*: This entails actual, physical proof evidenced by me, faith & belief are not sufficient, no matter how many faithful believers there are.]

[zenrat]

Some work today on the A&A Lavochkin La-200b.
A word of advice to those who have this kit.   If building it without installing the complete front engine (It is an option - you may wish to fit it into something else.  A DH2 for example) then the instructions would have you fit the front jet pipe into the RH fuselage half before closing the fuselage and then fitting the ventral jet pipe panel.
Disregard this.  Glue all the other interior gubbins in place and fettle it to get the halves to close.  Then tape the fuselage halves together and fit the jet pipe panel glueing it only to the RH half.  This will enable you to the remove the tape, split the halves and insert the jet pipe into the panel neatly, at the best angle and with what you consider to be the correct amount of pipe protruding.

[zenrat]

La-200b fit is terrible.  Even with much more test fitting than I usually do.
I've clamped and glued the fuselage halves sections to get it as tight a possible but its still going to a lot of PSR and rescribing.
Lovely.


Swift is still in the process of having internal parts painted before closing up the fuselage.  I'll also need to find space for some nose weight.

49 Ford body has been flamed and cleared and needs to  be polished before I can assemble all the various parts together.

[zenrat]

Having screwed up the clear on the '49 Ford (it will get a serious cutting compound treatment - hopefully I can save the flames - may end up as a Patina'd/Suede Rod) I began the first new build of 2022.  This...

...which was a xmas present last year.
I've dug out an AMT or Revell early Ford banger from my Engines Box and am fitting tuning parts such as a Riley two port OHV (or is it actually IOE?) conversion to the Model T engine.
This isn't accurate (too early, and possibly wouldn't fit on a T engine) but then remember where you are.
I've also started scratchbuilding a replacement chassis.  The ICM kit has the chassis moulded with the floor and the kit design is odd inasmuch as it isn't like a "normal" car kit and if built as intended it will be very tricky doing the metallic brass finish on the radiator shell (no plated parts in the kit).  I put this down to ICM being primarily a military and aircraft kit manufacturer.
Model Ts of this vintage had straight C section chassis rails and as I happen to have some Plastruct of that profile it will be easy.  Hardest part was trimming off the moulded rails from the floor without butchering it.
The box art incidentally doesn't accurately show the kit.  As moulded the front axle is straight whereas the one in the picture is dropped.The result of this will be the built car sitting higher than the art shows.  I could swap in a dropped axle from my stash but to match the picture I would also need to lower the rear which would be more complex and require cutting away the floor.
It's tempting to build it as a late 30's/early40's dry lakes gow job but then the figures would need a wardrobe change.

Here's the much more accurate box art from the first release.

[jcf]

The Riley Two-Port Model A head is an OHV design with the exhaust ports
connecting to the original in-block ports, the intake ports are blocked off.
The valve layout is still the standard Model A: E I I E  E I I E.



Have you see this site about the Chevrolet Bros.? Lots of photos and documentation
along with Fronty catalogs etc.
https://www.chevroletbrothers.com

https://www.chevroletbrothers.com/fronty-catalogs
In 1925 the 16-valve DOHC head was $500 w/out intake and exhaust manifolds and carbs,
$600 ready to install. A "crate motor" was $1,150.

[zenrat]

Thanks Jon.
Not really overhead valve is it if the exhaust valves are in the block.

New chassis;
1911 Model T Roadster WIP 04-01-2022 03 by Fred Maillardet, on Flickr

Mockup with engine:
1911 Model T Roadster WIP 04-01-2022 01 by Fred Maillardet, on Flickr

[jcf]

The exhaust valves aren't in the block, they're
in the head.

[zenrat]

There are eight valves in that picture but I can only see four pushrods operating them.  Each pushrod operating two valves through a forked rocker arm.
Those are, if I am interpreting it correctly, the inlet valves - two per cylinder- with the exhaust valves remaining as per the stock engine.

We need an exploded diagram or a cutaway of a Riley Two Port head.  But I can't find one online.

[Rick Lowe]

Is this any help?

https://stevemckelvie.wordpress.com/2018/07/28/riley-head-conversions-for-ford-model-a-engines/

Not exploded, but it labels the inlet/outlet manifolds and the advert lower down calls it a 'Riley Valve-in-Head'

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/riley-2-port-head.1102845/

Has a comment of 'Valves in Head, Exhaust in Block'.