JM-100 - Upsized - Lufthansa 46

[PR19_Kit]

I like that. 

I'm a big fan of the early Ar234s and that's a super development of them. I'm not sure there'd be much headroom in there, but they'd get there quickly. 

[PALG]

i was thinking of a turboprop version to (2 x Jumo 022 turboprop engines), but the decided to go with a 4 HeS011 jet engine configuration.
might work better if there was a 1/32 version, but the 1/48 version would make a good executive jet  

here's a rough sketch i made a while back in the planning stages.
i decided to keep the original Ar.234A nose profile and paint over the nose and bottom glazing  

Very nice.  And isnt that AR 234 variant engine config the best - if i could have found a kit in 1:48, at the time six years ago, i would have used the wings and engines, for sure.  but i went with the adapting the twin pods to the Me 262 wing, and am happy with it. Speaking of wings, my one regret with this project is i cannot reduce the sweep of the 262 wings to bring them fwd a little. Makes it look more authentic like other 1st gen jetliners (Comet, Jetliner, Nene Viking, Tudor etc)  i did on the small scale project years ago, but the kit pieces in this version couldnt be modified in that way (in my hands anyway).

I reckon yr plan for the nose is great and very instep with German designs at the time - e.g. Arado E.390, Ju EF 100 etc. My only comment would be to break the exposed glazing down into smaller panels.  In that scale thats an awfully big bubble canopy.

Is this design single-seat rows on either side?

[Spey_Phantom]

yes it is planned to have single seat rows on either side, similar to that of the Dornier Do-28 skyservant.
as for capacity, im thinking up between 12 or 20 passengers 

[CANSO]

... i plan to back them and fill with Micro Krystal Klear. It will be  the first time using KK, so it should be interesting. Any tips for a flush finish are very welcome.

IMHO Krystal Klear (or similar products) are not strong/thick enough for realistic windows. You can use clear epoxy (resin) instead.
I've tried it - it's much better and can be sanded. I poured it from the inside, using a selfadhesive sticker as a "cast" on the outside. Later on sanded the windows and the plastic from the outside and dry polished it. Having just a few air bubbles (was my fault ), material became very clear and transparent. Used this type of epoxy:

There is a special clear epoxy for making realistic eyes for masks and props. It's even better. Haven't used it yet.  

[PALG]

yes it is planned to have single seat rows on either side, similar to that of the Dornier Do-28 skyservant.
as for capacity, im thinking up between 12 or 20 passengers 

Even nicer. neat regional airliner there.

[PALG]

IMHO Krystal Klear (or similar products) are not strong/thick enough for realistic windows. You can use clear epoxy (resin) instead.
I've tried it - it's much better and can be sanded. I poured it from the inside, using a selfadhesive sticker as a "cast" on the outside. Later on sanded the windows and the plastic from the outside and dry polished it. Having just a few air bubbles (was my fault ), material became very clear and transparent. Used this type of epoxy:

There is a special clear epoxy for making realistic eyes for masks and props. It's even better. Haven't used it yet.  
[/quote]

THAT sounds like what i need. And without even looking I know that not a single hobby ship in Sydney will have it so i'll look for it online. thanks for this. So - u sand finely and it still appears OK without any further finishing ?

[CANSO]

THAT sounds like what i need. And without even looking I know that not a single hobby ship in Sydney will have it so i'll look for it online. thanks for this. So - u sand finely and it still appears OK without any further finishing ?

You may try similar (Australian) products - can't help you with any brands though. The generic name is clear casting resin/epoxy. Prices may vary too.
After finishing the model I sprayed it with "Future" so the clear parts became more shiny (as usual) and some micro scratches (which I usually cannot see without a macro lens or a microscope ) were filled/softened. If you have a model with a matt finish, use a drop of "Future" (or similar)on the windows only - in the same way as when making gauges in a cockpit.
When you find clear epoxy and start with it, make some trials - casting, pouring, curing etc. Do not mix the epoxy very fast - this creates bubbles. When you pour the mix do not pour in the whole of the window, but first on the plastic and then bring the epoxy into the openings. If you pour directly into the wholes air can build bubbles and they stay there - you don't see them initially. Some epoxy mixtures become very warm and can damage the plastic. Try it first. Because the layer for the windows is relatively thin it will probably not deform the model, but one never knows.

[Dizzyfugu]

Just for some inspirational input: found this one here...



A post-WWII design from 1958, the last Heinkel project before the company was disbanded. Pretty, though! 

[PALG]

geez...i love that thing!

[bluedonkey99]

Dizzyfugu

You could have an inspired scale-a-rama based on a He-162a? making a  high wing exec/ small regional jet?

BD99

[Dizzyfugu]

Yes, I see what you mean. Something for the (De)Militarize-it GB, maybe?