Kayaba Katsuodori

[NARSES2]

Think I need some copper wire 

Thanks

[Draken35]

Stunning work!

[zenrat]

Think I need some copper wire 

Thanks

I suspect you've got a fair bit knocking about if you have a look.  My walls are full of it...

[NARSES2]

Yea, but if I go through the plaster and breeze block to get at it I'll have to repair the wall 

No seriously I found a couple of wire spools yesterday whilst looking for something else in the tool box. No idea what I got them for originally but they are now in the modelling cabinet of drawers 

[MichelC]

Stunning work!

Thanks!

M

[MichelC]

Yea, but if I go through the plaster and breeze block to get at it I'll have to repair the wall 

No seriously I found a couple of wire spools yesterday whilst looking for something else in the tool box. No idea what I got them for originally but they are now in the modelling cabinet of drawers 

Good! Copper wire is one of the main materials, plastic aside, I use for modeling, along side beer can aluminum. I do most of my detailing work with those where plastic doesn't do. Copper wire comes in much finer gauges than solder and is much cheaper too. For free if you scavenge old electronic devices. It is very soft and easy to work with, can be bent to make plumbing and wiring. Bends even easier if you anneal it first (which also burns off the insulating varnish that's usually coats the wire.

M

[MichelC]

The primer coat is on: Mr. Surfacer 1200 polished with micromesh 3600 to remove any lint stuck to the paint and give it a smooth finish for the base coat.

[PR19_Kit]

What a very sleek looking airframe, beautifully modelled as well. 

[MichelC]

Thanks, Kit! There's a certain grace in the lines, isn't there?

M

[MichelC]

Base coat is on. It went on straight, no pre-shading. The reason for that is because of the base coverage ability of yellow, which results in too harsh a contrast. I'll use post-shading instead.

After doing some research on the WWII Japanese yellow/orange color for trainer and experimental a/c (there's a quite thorough essay by Nick Millman on the subject) I settled for a 95% Gunze H4 Yellow and 5% Gunze H3 Red mix. I'm quite happy with the result. Hope you like it too. 

[zenrat]

What an attractive colour.  I'd call that gold.

[NARSES2]

What an attractive colour.  I'd call that gold.

Agree with both comments.

[MichelC]

Thanks, guys! I think that once the matte coat is on it'll look less like gold and more like yellow/orange. Well, I hope...

M

[MichelC]

Next after painting came post-shading: base color lightened with white and darkened with orange and brown.



Elevons and rudders were masked off and painted in a lighter shade of the base color.



Hinomarus were painted with Gunze H3 Red, using masks made from Tamiya tape.



To make the masks a hole was punched into a piece of tape using a hollow punch.



The punched out disc was not discarded but used as a guide by placing it on the model where the hinomaru would go and then positioning the mask around it.



A small section was cut off from the disc to make it easier to lift off once the mask is in place.





The numbers on the fins were airbrushed using leftovers from an earlier set of Miracle Masks.



The paint is Gunze Flat Black lightened with a little Tire Black to break the harshness of absolute black.



No decals were used at all for this build.



The nozzle was painted with Model Master metalizers.



More to come...

M

[MaxHeadroom]

Hi, MichaelC!
Late, but not too late, I must say: WOW!
Especially for 1/72 you have done a very inventive job by creating this special "couch"-cockpit. It's an really meaningfull interpretation of how it could have been.
I'm curious of the roll-out-condition of this japanese paper-plane.

Norbert