1/72 Heavily modified T-55's

[PR19_Kit]

Is that the first 'live' video we've ever had on here? 

I've seen links and stuff but can't recall any quite like that.

[Rheged]

Is that the first 'live' video we've ever had on here? 

I've seen links and stuff but can't recall any quite like that.

It's the first video I can remember, and all I can say is "By Jove, that's clever!!"

[Vorcha]

Is that the first 'live' video we've ever had on here?  

I've seen links and stuff but can't recall any quite like that.

Is that the first 'live' video we've ever had on here?  

I've seen links and stuff but can't recall any quite like that.

It's the first video I can remember, and all I can say is "By Jove, that's clever!!"

thanks  

...I went to this site: http://ezgif.com/video-to-gif, where I uploaded the video file that I had re-retrieved from my instagram account (because the original video was made with my phone and I had no Idea how to cut the unneccessary top and bottom parts away without the help of instagram...) by means of http://regrann.com/ and converted it into a gif-file, which I then downloaded back and hosted on http://imgur.com/ to post it here... I really wanted to show it in "3D"

[Vorcha]

Hi all,
I made some progress 

The main gun of the TM-59/70 Farkas II has, like the original D-10t of the T-55, a caliber of 100mm. It's barrel however is ~5 calibers longer, making it 58 calibers long instead of 53 in the D-10t gun - enabling it to fire a stronger cartridge and giving thus a higher muzzle velocity... the exact figures are secret, however... 

Here's the barrel of the D-10t 100mm L/53.5 (without the breech and the bore evacuator):



I created a model of the 100mm L/58 cannon of the TM-59/70:



...so it already has a breech, but the bore evacuator is still missing...

I also added a little feature to the breech... it opens and closes, just like in real life... 





...I've made a little movie of it...

[NARSES2]

Terrific work on the gun 

[Vorcha]

Terrific work on the gun 

thanks 

[Gondor]

I would love to do work like this and would if I could cut more than one piece to exactly the same shape every time.

Gondor

[Vorcha]

I would love to do work like this and would if I could cut more than one piece to exactly the same shape every time.

Gondor

Gondor, use a sharp cutter-knife or scalpel. Cut the multiple printed parts not exactly on the line, but a little outside the marked space you have designated as a part. The knife has a self-inherent thickness that will drive itself into the material you are cutting. By cutting a little outside, you leave material to be sanded away later, or, by chance, you cut to the exact line. After this, what is left is just sanding with a file or sanding paper.

When drawing blueprints, always save in .png, that keeps every pixel, .jpg blurrs everything out after every save.

Do not print your blueprints just like that. Be aware, that every printer distorts the scale of the print. First scan a ruler or a sheet of millimeter-paper. Then cut just a piece of 10 centimeters and paste it on a clean paper - .png - file. After printing you will notice, that the printed 10 centimetres are longer or shorter than the ruler's 10 centimeters. Go back to the file and make it smaller or bigger by an arbitrary percentage, then print again on same paper, a little off the first. Repeat this, until you got a 1:1 scale-true print. I named that master-file in my computer "PERFECT PRINT SCALE"
...if it won't come out exactly (in MS Paint you can use only full percentage values), then resort to adding a pixel or two on every centimetre (or cut away, respectively), until you got a perfect result. This thing took me 2 days to do...  

if you are lucky, your printer has the same distortion as mine... so here is my scale-master sheet... unless the paper in your country does not follow DIN standarts... the scale is in the outermost upper right of this picture...

[Gondor]

Thanks for the words of advice Vorcha, does not make one bit of difference as I always manage to get things wrong. I know my limits so I will stick to what I know I can do.

Gondor

[Vorcha]

Thanks for the words of advice Vorcha, does not make one bit of difference as I always manage to get things wrong. I know my limits so I will stick to what I know I can do.

Gondor

Believe in yourself, we make our own limits.   

[chrisonord]

This is amazing work , I will be watching this very closely. 
Chris.

[Vorcha]

This is amazing work , I will be watching this very closely. 
Chris.

Thank you Chris!

...So meanwhile after some delays I proceeded on the gun. It's really not much, but I'm euphorious anyway...

I got the pages from the T-55 manual showing the original gun assembly, but to be honest, I didn't really understand the way it was done. So instead I took the Rheinmetall 120mm and it's gun cradle as a model for my tank model...



It's a really simple principle and it looks good. So I copied that principle for my TM-59/70 








As you can see, I simply made a somewhat tight casing around the start of the barrel and put these two pins on both sides. I can take out the barrel for repairs at any time. 



...and that's the maximum gun depression. I measured between -10 and -11...



...and of course a gun needs ammo... so I've collected a few ideas... 



 

[Captain Canada]

Wow...great work on this one and thanks for all the pics ! Love it.

[NARSES2]

Love the ammo 

[Vorcha]

So the work on my little project has been stalled for quite some time, but I never forgot about it. In the meantime I identified some design flaws and redeveloped it a little... So now I'm restarting from scratch...



The tank has changed a little. I redesigned the turret, made a new choice for the armament, updated the hull top at the rear as well as the sides and thought about a different way to arrange the wheels etc.



I hope this time I'll make it work.