(#2 Done! pics pg.4&5 ) -- USAF F-110B Vulture

[TheChronicOne]

Believe it or not, I'll be decalling on this today. It's not that I'm that close to completion, it's that with the way swing wing kits build up and the lack of need to use filler in ceratin areas, it means it will be easier to get it out of the way now.

With that in mind... I've finished the fin and wings.  They are painted, panel lines high lighted, and cover with floor polish. 

I have to get these wings done now before I can install them in the fuselage pieces.  No way to put them in later.   

Just to have something to look at:


The fin prior to transfers.

[TheChronicOne]

Done with the wings and fin!







Or I take that back..MIGHT be done.... I made sure to leave the "F" in "USAF" out of that front section on the leading edge of the wing because I'm not sure whether or not it would be appropriate to paint it black as  a de-icer.  Did the MiG-27 have a de icer on the leading edges of the wings?




EDIT: I just posted that closer-in pic on Facebook and said this stuff was for a MiG 27. There, with the "USAF" all big as hell, I wonder how long before someone will say "hey wait?!"   

[TheChronicOne]

Ding ding ding!!! It took exactly 9 minutes.   

MiG-27 with USAF on it?"

[PR19_Kit]

Ding ding ding!!! It took exactly 9 minutes.   

MiG-27 with USAF on it?"

Some people just don't get the whole Whiff idea. Their loss................. 

[Modelling_Mushi]

Or I take that back..MIGHT be done.... I made sure to leave the "F" in "USAF" out of that front section on the leading edge of the wing because I'm not sure whether or not it would be appropriate to paint it black as  a de-icer.  Did the MiG-27 have a de icer on the leading edges of the wings?

It's looking good.

The Mig 23-27 series didn't have de-icer boots, the lines on the leading edge are for slats. However, if you like black leading edges and de-icers there's nothing to stop you adding them in ... might even help push MiG-27 with USAF on it? over the edge 

Cutaway on the MiG 23 if you like here >> http://zarco-macross.wdfiles.com/local--files/wiki:mig-23-flogger/mig23cut.gif

[TheChronicOne]

Or I take that back..MIGHT be done.... I made sure to leave the "F" in "USAF" out of that front section on the leading edge of the wing because I'm not sure whether or not it would be appropriate to paint it black as  a de-icer.  Did the MiG-27 have a de icer on the leading edges of the wings?

It's looking good.

The Mig 23-27 series didn't have de-icer boots, the lines on the leading edge are for slats. However, if you like black leading edges and de-icers there's nothing to stop you adding them in ... might even help push MiG-27 with USAF on it? over the edge 

Cutaway on the MiG 23 if you like here >> http://zarco-macross.wdfiles.com/local--files/wiki:mig-23-flogger/mig23cut.gif

Thanks! Considering that my story involves the U.S. actually producing these (like a reverse B-29 / Tu-4 type of deal, but I used time travel) I don't see why not. I know for a fact planes of the late 50's had de-icers. My Micro Scale decal sheet tells me so. It could be slats/de-ices. I think that could work?  Would it mess up the way the plane works if I turn the slats into de-icers?  I'm not that familiar with what the slats do..    could it be possilbe to make them both?

Still plenty of time left. After I get some Tamiya tape, it would be a cinch to mask that off and throw down a coat of black.  Hell, I could even brush it if I wanted.. 



Today, I might go ahead and cover up those wings so I can plug them into the fuselage pieces. I think, after that, I just need to go ahead and sand it (fuselage seems) a bit then I can prime and look toward the painting. Most of the rest of the stuff is already painted, I'm just waiting on this, really.  Heck, I think I'm closer to actually being done with this than it seems.   

[PR19_Kit]

Would it mess up the way the plane works if I turn the slats into de-icers?  I'm not that familiar with what the slats do..    could it be possilbe to make them both?

The slats keep the airflow attached at low airspeeds, and are usually deployed on take-off and/or landing.

I can't see any reason why you couldn't have de-icer heaters on the slats, but what's wrong with just painting them black? It's your aircraft, after all. 

[TheChronicOne]

Wilco! I think it would look good, too.

Black it is...

[TheChronicOne]

Never mind that black stuff!!!  Even after I sealed everything in with floor polish and using good tape... it peeled my damn decal off (part of the "U" on the underside of the wing) when I tested a piece and pulled it right back off.  I could put down clear gloss coat and try again but I'm a bit weary of it now. Also, methinks the floor polish may be not quite up to par and I need to go ahead and spring for some Future.

Either way, I've already moved on and I think the wings look good anyway. 



I  need to sand the seams on the fuselage then I can slip those paper condoms back on the wings, mask the glass, and prime the stuff. If that goes well, I slap the metal color on and all I really need to do is get back to working on the ordnance. Once thats done, It's just a matter of applying transfers then gluing on all the small things and it should be done. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel but too early to call out an ETA.

[TheChronicOne]

Got a lot done working on this today.

Seams are all taken care of... it is now a matter of painting, assembling, decaling. On that note, the canopy is masked and fuselage now primed. Tomorrow I can begin putting on the metal colored paint then it gets to dry a few days.

Also... I FINALLY got done with all the external stores stuff....



The sad note is the canopy glass.  I seem to mess it up every time during and after the frame painting process. I need to work on that....  Still, from more than a foot away it looks alright it's just if you get up real close and peer in to look at my Lil Buddy you won't be able to see his detail quite so well and the flaws in the canopy will stand out.  Ehh...    either way, quite pleased with the build as a whole.

[TheChronicOne]

What do you mean about the canopy rails? I was having endless trouble getting paint onto only the framework and not the glass of canopy's and I hate masking such small area's so I was leaving them sloppy until I read what Chris (NARSES2) said somewhere about cleaning up around the framework with a toothpick after the paint had dried as that won't scratch the clear plastic and that's what I do now, it's much preferable to masking the buggers. My GB Buffalo canopy I painted by hand and then toothpicked it after and I'm satisfied with it, will be my method of use till I learn a easier or better way.

I always seem to get this weird hazy film on the glass parts... I've done all kinds of crap. I've masked, hand painted, a combination, etc etc... I do the toothpick (and needle) thing on the extra paint (which is a great tip, BTW.... with some paints it's easier this way by far!!!).  Then, I get lazy and use my regular (blue, not red, so I thought I could get away with it...) modeling glue to affix it to the fuselage then the hazy parts get WORSE because of the fumes.

I have no clue what's causing it.. I've tried scrubbing the piss out of it with q tip soaked in paint thinner to no avail.. it's as if the plastic itself has been altered instead of merely having grime built up on the surface. I need to get this problem solved. I know I'll be using Elmers Glue from now on for gluging the canopies on but that doesn't help all the problem that occur before then...

It's really quite maddening because even with my meager skills I'm at the point now where my models are pretty good!!! (for the level of refinement I want to do and working with the supplies I have...  )    It's just then... when you get to looking at the canopy.. it looks like utter garbage. 

I'll try to snap a picture later on today after I get the meta colored paint on this thing. I think at that point I can remove the masking from the canopy. 

Actually, a thought just occured to me...  this floor polish I'm using is giving results other than what I want in other areas of the build and maybe I should bypass dunking my next canopy in it to see what happens.  The thing is, the next canopy is vacuform so It'll be a bit different all around anyway.  Best BELIEVE I'm going to spend a bunch of extra time making that the best it can be.

Also, I've always painted the canopy long before I glue it onto the plane. Maybe I should go ahead and glue it on in step and then paint it when  I paint the rest of the plane?? then leave the masking on until the very end to keep it fresh???   

[TheChronicOne]

Using the wrong glue is definitely part of my problem but a lot of damage is done long before I reach that stage and I need to figure out what in the heck it is I'm doing wrong.

It's always after I paint the framework that this stuff shows up. I assume(d) it was paint smear and etc but when I try to get it off with thinner... it gets better but there's still splotches and haze that won't scrub off (could be some reaction with the floor polish.. either I'm putting it on at the wrong time or need to delete it completely... ).  Of, course, when I go to use the wrong glue like i've been doing, it doubles how bad it looks but still it's all messed up even before I get to the glue.

I've always been a clumsy, messy person when it comes to painting things. I'll figure it all out eventually. I just need to get over my comfort with set ways and at least TRY different methods.. I'll never get anywhere repeating this stuff that obviously isn't working.



In other news, turns out the on this airplane the bombs/ rocket pods are an option to choose between!  I 'll use the rocket pods on this one and save the little bombs for something else. Good thing is the sanding/filling, painting is already done.  I could use them on a WWII era prop WHIF or something...   

[Captain Canada]

I just use old white glue, or PVA, to hold canopies in place 

[TheChronicOne]

That's what I'm going to use next time. I was hoping I could slide by with the testors blue as it is less volatile than the red but...no joy.

Also, I'll be skipping using floor polish on it...  or, in the least, have it be the very last step instead of trying to paiint on top of it then cleaning up after. 

In other news... I tried spraying with my paint this morning when it was... oh.... about 55 (F) (the paint itself....).  I knew better but wanted to try to cheat and sure enough we got some orange peel going on.  I let it dry up awhile then just now warmed up the paint for another coat. It either smooths out a bit, or not, at this point.  I'm done fiddling with it. LOL

Now, I'll let it dry up about 4 days or more then it's time for transfers!   All I have to do after that is glue on all the little stuff then its done!   

[Hobbes]

Paint thinner can also fog transparencies.

Make sure any paint in the cockpit has properly cured (for Humbrol: a week) before you place the canopy.