Milliput replacement?

[RAFF-35]

Hi all, I was just wondering if any of you out there could recommend a better filler/putty than milliput? It's just been getting in the way of modelling progress recently as it takes ages to set, when it does set, you begin sanding it and it clogs up the paper, and unfortunately more often than not (whether it's my ow lack of talent or something?) I end up with an uneven surface finish

[NARSES2]

I only use Milliput for major jobs and then tend to finish with their super fine putty.

The Wookster swears by car body repair putty. Can't remember the brand he uses, sorry

Chris

[JayBee]

Try Isopon P38,car filler. you will get it in most car accessory shops. (As recommended by The Wooksta)
It sets in about 15 minutes and sands easily.
The only downside is that it does have a rather pungent smell.

For sanding, use wet and dry paper, and use it very wet. I normally do any sanding over the kitchen sink with plenty of water in it.

Jim

[Nick]

My advice is to use Milliput with a drop of water when mixing it.

A better putty is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe which is ideal for gaps of up to 3mm wide. It sands really smooth and sets well.

[NARSES2]

A better putty is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe which is ideal for gaps of up to 3mm wide. It sands really smooth and sets well.

Concur with this but Milliput and P38 (cheers Jim  ) have the benefit of being better for major "structural" work. Something I don't do much of. PPP is the best "normal" filler I have used.

[63cpe]

I use 2 component (car) bodyfiller for the large jobs. Gets really hard in about 15 minutes, sands easily and best to sand wet like JayBee wrote. Can't notice the pungent smell...( oh, think I got used to it..;-))

After sanding of the body filler there are usually cavities in the filler opened. I use Revell Plasto to fill these (cheap and easy to find), although i'm not really happy with it. I think it doesn't  stick to some plastics (think it's actually PVC) and reacts with enamels based on thinner/tolueen. I learned this when painting the F-84LR, Myasichev an again with the IH Transall......all plasto filled parts tend to absord the alclad paint, paint gets matte and filler wrinkles.... After some experimenting I learned this reaction is over when a primer is used.

I'm soon going to try PPP....read very positive reviews about it on this forum.

David

[The Chaos]

Hi i used 2 component Aves Modelling and Work Putty, it is very Great essay to use and having a good working time.
http://www.apoxie.com

[rickshaw]

I use Milliput for big jobs and either Vallejo putty or Perfect Plastic putty for smaller jobs.   I let the Milliput dry for at least 24 hours.  Sanding can be a bit of a bugger but I tend to scrape it with a modelling blade first and then sand afterwards.  Yes, it clogs up the sandpaper but I put up with that.

[Hobbes]

Milliput does need at least 24h drying time before sanding. Also, wet sanding helps prevent it from clogging up the sandpaper.

[RAFF-35]

Fantastic responses thanks guys, I do use a craft knife to scrape the surface flat, i will try out the wet sanding idea, not thought to do that before  will also track down some P38 as that sounds very promising 

[Old Wombat]

I use Aves Apoxy Sculpt 2-part water-based epoxy.

Brilliant stuff!

Cures to about the same consistency & hardness as styrene, sticks to most plastics, can be smoothed off with a wet finger or damp cloth before it cures, doesn't shrink, no noxious odours & cures in about 2 hours.

Down side is that it does clog sandpaper & files if it hasn't cured completely/correctly, although using a wet wet-&-dry sandpaper will circumvent the worst of that, & it works best if there's something for it to "grab" onto or hook into, as it doesn't react with the plastic..

[The Wooksta!]

A better putty is Perfect Plastic Putty from Deluxe which is ideal for gaps of up to 3mm wide. It sands really smooth and sets well.

Don't like it.  It's really just a finer Polyfilla and being water based won't key into the plastic.  Took me four attempts to fill a sinkhole. 

And at a fiver for a smallish tube, way overpriced when I can pay the same and get four times the amount with normal Polyfilla.

[PR19_Kit]

And at a fiver for a smallish tube, way overpriced when I can pay the same and get four times the amount with normal Polyfilla.

AND you can fill cracks in the plaster with it too. 

[Dizzyfugu]

I'll chime in an praise my preffered weapon, err, putty of choice: Presto Finish (from Dupli-Color/Motip, IIRC), a fine nitrous compound putty for car bodies and final surface prep. Similar to Revell's Plasto, but much better to work with, less brittle and evenly mixed. A bit smelly, but bonds perfectly with IP and works well on resin and even metal.

[Mondria]

as a sculptor I have used a lot of different putties but now only use 3
Magic sculpt or larger pieces or wen it need to be carved
Procreate for figures and really small pieces, also nice for filling smaller gaps  in hard to reach places that cant be sanded later
wen I can sand it it later I use Tamiya white

a mix of magic and procreate is good for almost all jobs but I hardly ever take the time to mix it