Tupovlev Tu-32P "Farmhand"

[63cpe]

Progress is made:

Top left is the MiG-25 "Foxbat-G", upper is Su-15MP "Mantra" and lower is the Tu-32P "Farmhand". The difference in size between the latter is apparent.
IMG_20170206_232822917_HDR by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

Cockpit parts for Foxbat-G and Tu-32P in basecoat.
IMG_20170206_232844122 by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

The MiG-25 kit from Condor doesn't have a turbine face nor inlet ducting, so I made it with the help of a Matchbox Victor turbine face, sheet styrene and a water thinned putty (works like clay but is much lighter, sticks better to styrene and comes in different colors). 24 hrs later the innerducting was smoothened out.
IMG_20170206_232940535_HDR by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

Test fitting the Tu-32P cockpittub (from derilict Heller Saab Lansen) and canopy. Above you see the ducting of the Su-15MP i've made like the ones provided in the 1/48 Su-15. They're just not included in the Trumpeter kit...
IMG_20170207_084922567 by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

Turbine face and ducting in the Tu-32P.....all oob.
IMG_20170207_084952666 by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

Meanwhile the wings for the Tu-32P were glued and puttied. The cutouts for the undercarriage are apparent.
IMG_20170207_092843240 by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

The angle of the radar nose for Tu-32P is corrected with two styrene disks glued and grinded.
IMG_20170207_094528526 by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

Cockpit parts are drying (sprayed in Tamiya transparant blue over a pastelgreen basecoat). On the right are the exhausts for the Tu-32P
IMG_20170207_122756204 by David Dunnebier, on Flickr

Can't wait to see when it's all finished.....
David

[PR19_Kit]

That's rapid, and good progress there. Nice job so far.

[Dizzyfugu]

OMG, this will be a HUGE beast!! 

Looks excellent - just a small suggestion (if it is not already part of the plan): maybe insert some small wedges at the wings' trailing edges inside of the landing gear fairing, elongating the trailing edge "line" from the outer wing parts? It's just my personal impression - but to me something is missing there?

Awesome work!!! 

[63cpe]

Yes, its as big as a Russian bear! hahaha comrade you've got sharp sight!

And yes there will be triangular shaped sheets glued in. I noticed the same thing.....something isn't right there...first i was thinking about rectangular shaped sheet to get the trailing edge correct. But a triangular piece is better...

By the way, I'm changing the putty from Revell Plasto to the Nitro putty you recommended. first impressions are very good: it's cheaper ( i'm still a Dutchman;-0), smoothes out great when applied and sands easily. Only thing is it doesn't seem to harden out or could it be i'm applying it too thick?

Thanks mate!

David

[PR19_Kit]

Only thing is it doesn't seem to harden out or could it be i'm applying it too thick?

If that's the Presto putty that Dizzy uses, you probably are. I've used it for some years now, and only recently found the best technique is to lay on a thin layer first, and let that harden off, and only then put on some thicker layers. The thick upper layers can actually make the lower layers UN-set themselves if you put it on too thickly. 

[Dizzyfugu]

If Presto is applied in a very thick (3mm plus)  layer, it takes quite a while to cure. It's primarily designed for thin and delicate surface work, e. g. for levelling out fine scatches on a car body before painting.
If you have deep gaps or try to sculpt bulges with it (which is possible), better apply thin layers, one after another, and build the material up gradually after curing. Another side effect of thick putty layers on styrene is, as Kit mentioned, that the nitro thinner of the putty melts/softens the styrene. No panic, just let it cure for a while, because premature intervention can cause collateral damage in the softened styrene - it can just turn ugly on very thin sheet material, which might warp, unless it is backed/strengthened by something.

[63cpe]

Ok, Yes it is Presto filler. So it doesn't seem to work very different then Revell Plasto. This also has to be applied in thin layers, melts the plastic (if not mixed well) and cures if you leave it for 2-3 days. The parts i've puttied are on VEB Plasticart plastic so i'm not really worried about melting/ deforming the plastic.
But, is good to get more experience with this putty....Till now, i'm positive...

David

[Dizzyfugu]

Yes, Presto more or less "behaves" like Revell's Plasto, but it's more evenly mixed and less brittle when dry.

[zenrat]

I used to use cellulose based knifing putty which had a similar effect on styrene.
As I learnt when I tried to fill the axle hole in the sump of a 1/25 car engine by packing it with the stuff.  It turned into a blob.

[Weaver]

I've had problems with filler when it's been glued into a sealed space before it's properly cured. The fumes have nowhere to go so the concentration remains high and they start softening the plastic...

[63cpe]

Ow crap.....

[Dizzyfugu]

I've had problems with filler when it's been glued into a sealed space before it's properly cured. The fumes have nowhere to go so the concentration remains high and they start softening the plastic...

Well, NC putty is supposed to cure through thinner evaporation. If you want to fill a sealed space, either be patient or use 2C putty, which will harden through a chemical reaction.
Additionally, the softening phenomenon might simply occur because a big amount of putty has been appllied, and the amount of thinner/softener is just too much for the material below/around to handle. I am sure that the instructions tell you to "apply in thin layers", and there's a reason for this advice. 

[PR19_Kit]

I am sure that the instructions tell you to "apply in thin layers", and there's a reason for this advice. 

It does indeed, in about five different languages. 

[Weaver]

I am sure that the instructions tell you to "apply in thin layers", and there's a reason for this advice. 

It does indeed, in about five different languages. 

Ah, that'd be the problem then: I only read it in one of them....

Does any of the five language variants offer a precise definition of 'thin' by any chance? 

[PR19_Kit]

I am sure that the instructions tell you to "apply in thin layers", and there's a reason for this advice. 

It does indeed, in about five different languages. 

Ah, that'd be the problem then: I only read it in one of them....

Does any of the five language variants offer a precise definition of 'thin' by any chance? 

Actually I'm not sure that English is one of the languages on the tube either.

You're a tad optimistic to think they'd tell the customer what THEY mean by thin, we're meant to be clairvoyant in such matters. 

From my recent experience with the Monsoooooon I'd say that 3 mm or so was too thick, so perhaps 1.5 mm might work. Dizzy probably has calibrated fingers as he uses it so much so he  may know down to the nearest nano-metre.