Photo etch parts

[chrisonord]

I haven't had chance to look all through the posts, but I would like all the ammo needed to help me with my phobia of all things photo etch. Flat easy to install bits are not a problem, but I have recently started building a model collect BMP 3, and the armour on it is photo etch along with some of the interior details, and the stuff needs bending and folding and other photo etch sticking on it. I am struggling with the gluing on, and not to my fingers/tweezers bit. I have tried a few viscosity's of cyano, but it causes my problems. Please help!!
Chris 

[Rick Lowe]

I usually use super glue, when I use PE at all, but I have heard good things about Gorilla Glue - though I have no actual experience to back this up.

I have heard - and used - the technique of annealing the metal first, so it's easier to fold and otherwise work with, if that helps?

Good fortune with your experiences...

[Hobbes]

When I need a really small amount of glue (to prevent capillary action from drawing the glue into the space between the part and tweezers), I don't apply it directly.
Instead, I put a drop on some paper, then I dip the part into that drop. If even less glue is needed, I use a cocktail stick to transfer the glue.

[Thorvic]

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TU09932

Try a bending tool for Photo Etched parts they pin the part down in a press then another tool such as an industrial razor blade can be used to slide under the exposed metal up to the fold to bend it to the correct angle without it twisting or shooting off.

Check eBay for them as you can get cheaper ones and more expensive ones with a variety of shapes to bend against such as Hold'n'fold

[NARSES2]

I tend to anneal unpainted parts as that makes them easier to use and then I have a very cheap folding tool I got from Aeroclub I think. You had to fold it into the required shape before use  It does help.

As far as handling and placement of small parts are concerned I use a "tacky" pencil I picked up at a show. It's Japanese so I can't help with who it's made by I'm afraid. You do have to constantly sharpen it but it is incredibly useful for small parts (plastics as well as etch)

As for glue ? I tend to do the same as Harro plus I have found that you can get some very small blobs of super glue gel where you want them, rather than where you don't. Needles held in pin vices can be useful for applying glue, plus they have the advantage that you can keep them clean and sharp which helps. Finally I've also used Gator Glue on some larger parts to get them sorted before hitting them with the stronger stuff.

Best advice I can give ? Only try fixing etch when you are in the mood. If you start to get frustrated with the bits then walk away for a bit.

[chrisonord]

Thanks very much for the advice fellas, I must admit this kit has the most amount of P.E I have ever seen on a 1/72nd scale kit, and some of the parts have to have a curve bent in to them and their attachment tabs bent to a specific angle, neither of which is shown in the instructions  :banghead:I think this kit is going to be a long termer for sure.
Chris

[PR19_Kit]

'Annealing' tends to be a bit of a generic term depending on the material to which you're referring, so what's the procedure for the stuff that PE is made from please?

[NARSES2]

'Annealing' tends to be a bit of a generic term depending on the material to which you're referring, so what's the procedure for the stuff that PE is made from please?

Depends on the material Kit.

Traditional etch was brass which you heat to glowing and then you have the option of allowing it to cool naturally or quench it. Either way works.

Some etch nowadays is steel however, so heat to glowing and allow to cool. Don't quench it.

However a lot of this is pointless as so mutch etch now is pre-painted.

[PR19_Kit]

Thanks for that Chris, I knew you'd know it right away. 

My ONC level Metallurgy probably covered it but that was 55 years ago. 

[Thorvic]

Gator Glue actually do a PE specific formula which seams to work OK

[zenrat]

I deal with PE by leaving off as much as I can.


That's prolly not much help...

[NARSES2]

Gator Glue actually do a PE specific formula which seams to work OK

Interesting Geoff. I'd seen the advert but didn't know of anyone who'd used it.

I deal with PE by leaving off as much as I can.


That's prolly not much help...

There is no way I use a lot of what is on a sheet especially in 1/72. Even the Eduard Zoom sets I'll only use half or so

[chrisonord]

This kit I am doing has a lot of the external parts in P.E, so wouldn't look right if I left them off, also the numbers that correspond to their location on the sheet really don't! so I have put it down, and started a "quick" build that I hope will be finished for the Soviet GB deadline.
chris

[ChernayaAkula]

Have a look around on YouTube.  There's oodles of tutorials on there. In case of PE, seeing the things handled and installed might be more helpful than reading about them.

And finding a walk-around of the vehicle in question (such as on primeportal.net) can also be most helpful when having to deal with dodgy instructions. Case in point: a recent test build of Kitty Hawk's Su-17. The builder had a lot of problem getting some landing gear oleo on correctly. Turns out the parts were probably fine, but were incorrectly installed in the instructions. I'm sure consulting a walk-around would've helped with this.