Resin kits.... what do I need to know?

[strobez]

So, despite paying more than I'd hoped for, I was finally able to get my hands on one of my "Holy Grail" kits... the Macchi M.52r from Vintage Models.

I love sea planes and flying boats, and the Macchi racers are a particular favourite. Despite just being cool, the Macchi M.39/52 (a bit of a hybrid) appears in Hayao Miyazaki's film Porco Rosso as Porco's friend Ferrari's plane during the escape from Milan, so it also fits in with my overall Studio Ghibli themed build project. Which makes it doubly attractive.

Anyway, I almost broke down and grabbed the new MC.72 instead (and still might... just 'cause), but I held out and my luck paid off (not to mention my wallet).

The thing is, the kit is resin and I've never built one before. I'm terrified over screwing up an expensive and basically irreplaceable kit.  I'll probably try to get my hands on a "practice" kit first... (any suggestions?) but I'm wondering what a first time resin model builder needs to know.

I've got as far as "you can't use cement".

[McColm]

Always wash the parts before you superglue them together. Some parts fit well whilst others have gaps or are wrapped. Wrapped parts can be reshaped if put into hot water.
Take your time, you can rescribe panel lines when the build is nearing completion.,

[rickshaw]

There is no super-secret IMHO to building resin kits.  Just take your time and be careful.  You might need some extra fettling to make the pieces fit properly but in my opinion, in many cases they fit better than many injection moulded kits do!   Be careful though, superglue can be quite difficult to remove from your fingers and other parts of the anatomy!   

First remove the pieces from their moulding blocks - I tend to use a razor saw for that.  Then sand them down, to remove any blobs/projections/etc.  Then stick them together.   

[Allan]

I too have a resin kit waiting to be made and it's the Planet Waves three-engine Schnellbomber...I'm petrified about mucking the thing up so this thread is pretty useful to me as well

[Dizzyfugu]

Get yourself a mini drill, like a Dremel or an even smaller engraving tool, with some drill bits and a saw blade. I found this device to be extremely helpful when dealing with resin kits of any sort, for cleaning and modifying. At times you will have to make major adjustments, or add locator pins by yourself in order to ensure stability. You can do these stunts "by hand", but some motorized help makes life much easier, esp. when you have to deal with delicate parts like a landing gear.

Some good training can IMHO already be the modification of a standard IP kit with resin conversion parts, e. g. a different engine.

Otherwise, just be patient and expect poor fit/PSR everywhere, as well as the need for improvisation here and there. From opersonal experience I must say that a good resin kit does not mean more difficulties than a good IP kit. If the mould is crisp and the casting done well, things can literally fall together. You frequently come across pirate copies of parts or even complete kits, and these things tend to be cheap - and that's exactly what you get: a cheap and poor kit. Such unofficial kits/castings (and their upset builders) may be the reason why resin kits are frequently called "complicated" or "challenging". Make sure you have an authorized original. It's no guarantee, but an indication that your work will be much easier than a low-budget re-cast.

And cleaning the parts for starters from silicone residue, like McColm mentioned, is a must, too.

[zenrat]

...Some parts fit well whilst others have gaps or are wrapped. Wrapped parts can be reshaped if put into hot water...

I think Mr McColm means "WARPED" rather than "WRAPPED".

Boldly spill chuck strikes again... 

[kitnut617]

A good tool to have when building resin kits, is a quality product superglue debonder. It saves a lot of grief.

[Mossie]

I've never completed a resin kit, but I've been given a few tips that have worked well.  Use a superglue accelerator, this helps to fix parts in place immediately, it also helps give a much firmer bond.  Once you've used it the accelerator, the superglue becomes more difficult to sand and remove so take care when using it.

If you've got a large gap to fill, try to use a scrap bit of resin.  You can use styrene, but it's harder to sand and resin tends to wear away around it.  If you use styrene, cut the piece slightly smaller and fill over the top.

[Hobbes]

I tend to use slower-setting CA glue (e.g. gel), this gives you a few seconds to move the parts around to get them to line up correctly.

Resin dust is not good for the lungs, so use a dust mask when sanding/sawing. Or wet-sand/saw, just make sure your razor saw doesn't rust when it gets wet, my nice Tamiya saw ended up with red spots all over...

Primering is recommended (whereas on a plastic kit you can often get away with omitting the primer).

[PR19_Kit]

Resin dust is not good for the lungs, so use a dust mask when sanding/sawing. Or wet-sand/saw, just make sure your razor saw doesn't rust when it gets wet, my nice Tamiya saw ended up with red spots all over...

What Hobbes said squared! Sanding and sawing resin stuff really needs to be done wet, then the bits don't go all over the place and get breathed in a few days later.

Also DON'T practice on a Unicraft kit, no matter how cheap it may be. It'll put you off resin kits for life! 

[Gondor]

If your wanting to practice with resin, get a conversion set for something as they are usually resin and so will give you something to practice on/with first. It's also a cheap way of getting resin.

Gondor

[Martin H]

Also DON'T practice on a Unicraft kit, no matter how cheap it may be. It'll put you off resin kits for life! 

Oh I dunno. My first ever resin kit was a Unicraft Kit..........didnt put me off. But then Ive always done things my own way 

Pretty good advice from the gang here. I dont think I can realy add much that hasnt already been said.

[Old Wombat]

I've only used resin upgrades, so far, but I do have a couple of resin kits to build one day.

However, my take on the Rules for Resin Modelling, based on the advice so far is;

1.   Remove all the pour stubs.
2.   Cut/file/sand wet to avoid dust (clean up immediately after to avoid product drying & becoming dust) - wearing a dust mask is a distant 2nd-place option).
3.   Clean all the parts in warm soapy water, rinse in clean water & air dry.
4.   Dry-fit all the parts.
5.   Cut/file/sand as required to fit (refer to Rule 2).
6.   There is NEVER a rule 6!
7.   Use CA glue to join parts (epoxy adhesives are another alternative, if you don't mind the curing time or want the extra time to adjust the fit).
8.   PSR as per Rule 2.
9.   Prime the resin with a dedicated primer paint to get better adhesion for finishing coats.
10. Have fun!

How do they scan for the rest of you who have more experience?

[NARSES2]

I've built a fair few full resin kits and tend to enjoy them. As said above they really can range from as good as any injection moulded kit you can find to absolute "pigs ears"  However even those once completed can be satisfying, strange but true 

I think the key is to take your time and test fit. Use a good super glue, as Hobbes says the gel type is handy and as Kitnut says "get some de-bonder. Also be aware that sometimes super glue doesn't set as quickly as you think it will and sometimes it sets too quickly  Whence the de-bonder 

I've started to use some 5 minute epoxy a fair bit on some parts where I want extra strength in the join. It really doesn't take that much longer and you do get the extra wriggle time.

I do know the kit you are referring to and I really would try and get a cheap, perhaps second hand, full resin kit to just get the feel of it. Although to be honest there does seem to be a fair few different resins in use by the manufacturer's which can effect the way the build behaves.

Finally, don't be frightened of it, they really are basically the same, some are more primitive yes, but other than the different glue you are using the process is the same at the end of the day.

[Gondor]

I've only used resin upgrades, so far, but I do have a couple of resin kits to build one day.

However, my take on the Rules for Resin Modelling, based on the advice so far is;

1.   Remove all the pour stubs.
2.   Cut/file/sand wet to avoid dust (clean up immediately after to avoid product drying & becoming dust) - wearing a dust mask is a distant 2nd-place option).
3.   Clean all the parts in warm soapy water, rinse in clean water & air dry.
4.   Dry-fit all the parts.
5.   Cut/file/sand as required to fit (refer to Rule 2).
6.   Use CA glue to join parts (epoxy adhesives are another alternative, if you don't mind the curing time or want the extra time to adjust the fit).
7.   There is NEVER a rule 6!
8.   PSR as per Rule 2.
9.   Prime the resin with a dedicated primer paint to get better adhesion for finishing coats.
10. Have fun!

How do they scan for the rest of you who have more experience?

I'm worried about Rule 7 now 

Gondor