AvPro Marauder (1/72)

Started by jalles, November 04, 2017, 03:54:32 PM

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NARSES2

Nice start. My brother is a retired shipwright and would be very impressed with that hull  :thumbsup:
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

jalles

Quote from: PR19_Kit on November 05, 2017, 09:08:11 PM
Looks like the sort of 'in build' pics I see in Model Boats magazine.  :thumbsup:

Quote from: NARSES2 on November 06, 2017, 06:36:31 AM
Nice start. My brother is a retired shipwright and would be very impressed with that hull  :thumbsup:

Well, it is the flying boat group build, I just wanted to make sure I had the boat part covered  ;)

jalles

Frame filled in with apoxy sculpt and much sanding later.



Primed



Unfortunately it's really lumpy.  I knew I shouldn't sand all the way down to the styrene ribs but I did it anyway  :banghead: I think I need to coat the whole thing with a thin layer of apoxy sculpt and then sand again.

Here's the bottom before filling in with apoxy sculpt.


Old Wombat

Good job! :thumbsup:

I like to work my Apoxie Sculpt before it hardens, using water & whatever tool I find appropriate for the job at hand. In the case of your hull I'd probably use a wet block of wood, used like a sanding block, to get the basic shape before it cures. Once cured I'd wet-&-dry it to get the final shape. Occasional fixes often involve using something different, like Tamiya white putty.
Has a life outside of What-If & wishes it would stop interfering!

"The purpose of all War is Peace" - St. Augustine

veritas ad mortus veritas est

jalles

Quote from: Old Wombat on November 12, 2017, 01:41:53 AM
I like to work my Apoxie Sculpt before it hardens, using water & whatever tool I find appropriate for the job at hand. In the case of your hull I'd probably use a wet block of wood, used like a sanding block, to get the basic shape before it cures. Once cured I'd wet-&-dry it to get the final shape.

Yeah, that's pretty much exactly what I do as well, although I use the Aves solvent instead of water to smooth everything out.  I also have a couple other sculpting tools I use as well.  The ribs mess with things a bit.  One, I want them completely covered so it's hard to determine just how think the material is over the ribs, two when smoothing the ribs mess with the flow of the apoxie sculpt so there are faint ridges as the material builds up behind the ribs.

Mossie

Instead of scrap styrene, how about xps foam styrene, the kind you get for insulation at hardware stores?  You can cut, carve and sand it to shape, then use the Apoxy sculpt over the top and you shouldn't get as much lumpiness?

One sheet won't cost much and would probably last years.
I don't think it's nice, you laughin'. You see, my mule don't like people laughin'. He gets the crazy idea you're laughin' at him. Now if you apologize, like I know you're going to, I might convince him that you really didn't mean it.

jcf

Having faired full size boats, new-build and repaired wooden boats, and fibreglass boats - hull repairs,
I recommend using a batten to check the surface as you sand, also a long-skinny fairing block is better
than a square or low aspect ratio rectangular block.

Fairing longboards used in boatbuilding/repair:


http://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Final-Fairing-and-Finishing.pdf


jalles

#22
Not a whole lot of progress to show.  Here's the frame for the engine nacelles.







This has since been filled with apoxie sculpt and received some PSR.  I'm going to build one nacelle and then vacuform two copies, mostly because I've lazy.  The top and bottom bucks/molds are close to finished, just doing some fine tuning.

Caveman

Love watching this level of engineering in models  :thumbsup:
secretprojects forum migrant

NARSES2

Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

jalles

Quote from: Caveman on November 20, 2017, 05:17:53 AM
Love watching this level of engineering in models  :thumbsup:

Quote from: NARSES2 on November 20, 2017, 07:04:01 AM
Me to

Thanks gents!

Work continues, here is the bottom portion.  I tried to make it a little more boat like than my references show.



Here's the engine nacelle.  Slightly more stealthy than some of the artwork of the Marauder.



While I'm sure neither of these pieces are completely symmetrical, I'm calling them good enough.


PR19_Kit

They'd look good in an article on high speed model boat hulls!  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

zenrat

Symmetry is over-rated.  Just ask Tophe.
;D
Fred

- Can't be bothered to do the proper research and get it right.

Another ill conceived, lazily thought out, crudely executed and badly painted piece of half arsed what-if modelling muppetry from zenrat industries.

zenrat industries:  We're everywhere...for your convenience..

ericr


KiwiZac

#29
Quote from: jalles on November 04, 2017, 03:54:32 PM
This one is what made me fall in love with the Marauder. I want one so bad, but not bad enough to do what you're doing!

Quote from: Mossie on November 05, 2017, 06:55:20 AMNearly all the artwork I've seen of the Marauder is different. I don't believe it was a concrete proposal.
Spot on. I don't think they ever built a single aircraft (of any type they proposed, not just the Marauder) or even a mockup.
Zac in NZ
#avgeek, modelbuilder, photographer, writer. Callsign: "HANDBAG"
https://linktr.ee/zacyates