Nausicaa - Ohm

[zenrat]

So, after soldering 14x3 (red/blue/ground) wires together with 14 x 2 resisters (of appropriate Ohms... ba dum bum), the good news is that I now have 14 red and blue eyeballs.  The bad news is that the proximity switch now turns the red on without turning off the blue.   

Hopefully this is just a case of the resistor values screwing with the op amp's voltage comparison.  I think i had it set so when blue's voltage was higher than the set value they were on, but lower turned them off, at the same time the comparison turned red on.  By lowering the voltage on the blues, they no longer meet the threshhold to turn off... or maybe vice versa...

If that sounds like I'm trying to explain it to myself, that's because I am...

You lost me at "Hopefully"...

[Weaver]

I was waiting for the first 'resistance' joke....

Somebody will have to model one of these things with a beret, a Gauloise and a Sten Gun....

[scooter]

I swear these things look like Khan's "pets", just with more eyes

[strobez]

Here's the joke I've been saving...

A guy walks into an electronics supply store in Seoul and asks to buy some resistors.  The clerk says "how many Ohms do you need?"

The guy replies "Oh, I dunno... just enough for two, but one of them is dead..." 

ba dum bum!

[NARSES2]

 

[strobez]

More like 



I wasn't happy with how my sensor was working.  Basically the setting had to be so tight you basically had to rub the Ohm's nose... in just the right spot... for it to work.  So after a little research I discovered there was a low cost $5 option for using a digital circuit board (which I'd avoided because I thought it was going to run me $40-50) instead.

Of course, that meant learning a whole bunch of stuff (including new-to-me computer coding) before I could get an LED light to even blink.  I figured the Ohm project would need a warm up first, so I switched gears and started working on a project to build a base with a launch clock for my Tintin rocket i stead.

Of course, that turned out to be way more complicated than I thought, but in the process I discovered the what I wanted to do with the Ohm project wasn't as hard as I thought.

So... nevermind...

[strobez]

Finally got it to do more or less what I wanted it to do.... just a few more things to try...


https://youtu.be/23MxEo0kVbU

[PR19_Kit]

Oh, VERY clever! 

[Vorcha]

omg this is awesome! loved the movie and I love this 

[Weaver]

[strobez]

Ok.  So now that the Bordurian tank and the Soviet Monoplane from my Tintin build are finished, I can get back to this one.

Finally got a base coat down.  Decided green would be a good place to start but I also decided to do some undershading on the... uhm... panel lines.



I'm not sure how happy I am with the seams.  Usually you just have to keep sanding until everything is smooth, but this is quite different. It looks okay I guess, but I'm not quite happy.  However, I'm not sure if that's because I'm picky, or if I'm just trying to procrastinate in order to avoid getting started on the legs...



There is... a LOT... of legs...



The legs are also a bit of a challenge because for some reason they're molded in a very vinyl-like plastic.  It's quite soft and flexible, but difficult to sand the mold lines off.  Maybe a razor blade will work better.

[Old Wombat]

Possibly so that they flex, rather than snap or break the glue joins when picked up & put down?

[strobez]

Oh, that makes sense. It is a "snap together" kit after all, so it's got some toy-like qualities to it.  The clear eyes also come with centre pegs, which annoys me not end, and I had to surgically remove a ton of the interior super-structure - basically the interior skeleton that all the shell parts snap onto.

[strobez]

After giving what felt like a thousand manicures...  we have legs!





I've been trying to mix various greens to get a bit of depth, but I haven't quite succeeded yet I don't think.  I'm not used to painting things organically, so this is a bit of a learning curve.

[Old Wombat]

A few "realistic" artists' impressions of the Ankylosaurus (as I think this is as close as you'll get in real life);











To me it looks like a couple of shades through the airbrush, then on to the hairy sticks for dry-brushing & details is the go.