Zvezda Star Destroyer - a new detailing project

[NARSES2]

Good to see the update

[PR19_Kit]

Bogglement factor maximum! 

[buzzbomb]

... and the masterclass in Sci Fi modelling continues.

Simon.. just awesome

[Old Wombat]

Just keep on pottering along, I'm fine with that. No point rushing such awesome work!

[Madhatter]

thanks for the encouraging posts guys 
When I'm working on this, I work to the rule of 'once round the glue jar' before stopping. I know some of you maybe like WTF? but I make puddles of Extra Thin Cement on top of the glue bottle to be able to dip my styrene chips into before attaching them. The glue being what it is evaporates pretty quick and after a while of topping the puddle up and dipping bits into it, the puddle becomes to dense to work with, so I make a new puddle next to it and so on until Ive been round the bottle once. That's usually about 2-4 hours worth of work. I have to leave it over night to dry and then scrape it off with the back of the knife and then we are back to the beginning.
This and the cutting of such fine slivers drastically adds to the time it takes to update this thread. Thankfully you guys are very forgiving of this where as some sites, people tend to get bored and over it if its not done in 10 minutes.

Anyways, thanks again guys for continuing to look in. I appreciate it 

Si

[NARSES2]

I do something very similar when I'm using super glue, except I use old milk bottle caps. So fully understand what you mean

[Madhatter]

hi guys
I am posting a problem I am currently having with my pipe bender. I am still getting kinks in the bend!  I am using it the way I've seen on YouTube and still, I can't get a nice 90degree bend in brass pipe. It's driving me nuts and I'm running out of pipe. The guide is the right size for the pipe but as soon as I hit 45 degrees the kink starts. Ive tried brass, copper and aluminium and all 3 do the exact same thing. What am I doing wrong???

[PR19_Kit]

For larger pipe (1/2" bore and upwards) we use a spring poked down inside the pre-bent pipe.

Is that possible with model size pipe?

And you may need to anneal the pipe first as well.

[NARSES2]

And you may need to anneal the pipe first as well.

My gut feeling would be to bend to 45 degrees, or just under, then anneal and then complete the bend. The annealing should take some of the stress out of the pipe. I'm trying to think what else you could use for a former for the pipes interior ? However it's a very long time since I did my basic metallurgy course.

[Madhatter]

Im using 1/4 inch pipe which will be used to suspend the SD over the base. Ive got some pipe springs coming to me in the mail but I thought I'd try the bender first.
The guys on YT don't anneal or heat the pipe first, they just bend it. So I am completely flummoxed as to why it isn't working for me.

[NARSES2]

Small diameter, especially internal diameter, pipe doesn't like sharp bends which I know doesn't help you.

I'm afraid I've never tried to bend anything that small.

[PR19_Kit]

IIRC you could get bending springs for 1/4" pipe, as we used that size for pilot pressure lines, but we rarely bent it sharply enough to need the springs, a 6" radius bend was the smallest usually.

[Rheged]

I've still got my late father's 1/2 and 3/4 inch pipe bending springs , which I have used successfully, but only on fairly large radius (6" radius or more)curves.    On first reading this, I nipped out to the garage and tried bending a 2" radius bend in a piece of gash 1/2"  copper pipe.....it started wrinkling!!     

[Madhatter]

Thanks for the input guys. I tried filling a tube with sand and bending it again but I still had the same issue.  I may outsource the stand if I can't get it to work properly. Any potential takers?

[zenrat]

Unless you need to use tube for a specific reason (like running wiring through it) then use rod.
You should be able to bend that OK without it kinking.