My Stash Grew Again 2020

[PR19_Kit]

The most expensive ? The steel used for the production of the springs which opened cluster bomb units. Also produced within the "workhouse" at Stocksbridge.

It's educational being on here, as well as amusing. 

[The Wooksta!]

Ebays tells me I've won another Revell Hunter FGA 9 in the original boxing.  I think I'm now replete with Hunter single seaters.

[Gondor]

The postie dropped off

1 x 1/72 Grand Models Decals for TF-102 which covers Three Turkish aircraft, two with the square national markings,; Four Greek aircraft with at least one in SEA camouflage and Four American aircraft with one of them also being in SEA comouflage.

Gondor

[PR19_Kit]

Another small box from the Big H. This time a resin add-on bomb bay interior for a Canberra PR9 (it's actually the flare bay, but maybe they don't know that) and both shades of RAF Slate Grey paint.

The Light shade of the latter is already camouflaging my Canberra F10, the first coat anyway.

Amazingly the 'bomb bay' add on actually has the pipe work moulded into it onto which I grafted a sampling valve aboard XH131 back in the mid 70s! It DOESN'T have the sampling valve though, so I'll have to add that for perfect authenticity.

It'll be all of 10 thou. dia. in 1/72 scale. 

[kitnut617]

In Calgary yesterday to pick up casting supplies, a new tool Revell Shackleton MR.3 found it's way into the shopping basket. I'll build this one with the Vipers.

[TheChronicOne]

Now that's odd because all the Swann-Morton boxes I've seen are blue  Mind you yours may well be surgical quality which might account for the different boxes ?

I believe it's down to how they're sterilized. Blue are non-sterilized while the red and green are. Of the two varieties that are sterilized, the red box is carbon steel and green box is stainless steel.  Now.... I don't know which is better... carbon or stainless?

The blue boxes we buy for modelling purposes here in the U.K. are considered as "seconds" by Swann-Morton. Now when I asked what that meant, a long, long time ago, I didn't get an answer. It could be as simple as sterilised and non, but I always had the impression it was something else. Their quality control was, and is, extremely rigorous and the way razor steel (the starting point for the blades) was produced meant that there tended to be some at the edge of the coil which wasn't quite 100%. Mind you the production of razor steel was all very much a black art back in the day  It was also the second most expensive steel we produced. The most expensive ? The steel used for the production of the springs which opened cluster bomb units. Also produced within the "workhouse" at Stocksbridge.

As for carbon or stainless ? From our point of view the differences are negligible. Just be respectful when using the blade and let the edge do the cutting, don't apply to much pressure as you might snap the thing.

Ah!!!  OK then, thank you!!  I can't wait to try them out... I'll be easy on 'em.   

[jcf]

Carbon steel can take and hold a sharper edge and is generally slightly more flexible,
none of which makes a difference to modelling unless you like to rehone your blades.
The carbon steel is definitely superior in that case. 

[The Chaos]

New at my stash.

[TheChronicOne]

Carbon steel can take and hold a sharper edge and is generally slightly more flexible,
none of which makes a difference to modelling unless you like to rehone your blades.
The carbon steel is definitely superior in that case. 

Thanks!!  Sounds familiar....... swords and such. 

[Mossie]

Carbon steel can take and hold a sharper edge and is generally slightly more flexible,
none of which makes a difference to modelling unless you like to rehone your blades.
The carbon steel is definitely superior in that case. 

Thanks!!  Sounds familiar....... swords and such. 

On the other side of that, stainless steel is much better in it's intended medical environment.  It doesn't rust in contact with bodily fluids (at least not in the time you'd usually use it) and is easier to sterilise and less likely to harbour bugs.  It's meant to cut soft tissue so strength isn't an issue if you're using it properly.  None of which matters to us of course.  I've never managed to get hold of carbon blades and can attest that stainless blades snap and ping easily if you use too much pressure.

[NARSES2]

Yup I can attest to the fact that generally carbon steel tends to take an edge better than stainless and if you have the skill, as I know Jon and a few others do, its the one to go for if you want to re-hone a blade.

I also did a bit of digging and Swann-Morton now make blades specifically for hobby purposes, or at least market them as such, something they didn't do back in my day.

The real "fun" starts when you attend a special steels meeting and the discussions start, normally over a pint or two, as to when is steel not steel and which type of steel is best for which purpose  I can actually remember people who could recall the old Huntsman Steel making process, although I think it may have been in a working museum ? Now that was top quality for clock springs.

Anyway from the E-Bay fairy yesterday another Airfix 1/72 "Rag Wing" Hurricane. This will probably be my RAF Silver Wings build.

[TheChronicOne]

Carbon steel can take and hold a sharper edge and is generally slightly more flexible,
none of which makes a difference to modelling unless you like to rehone your blades.
The carbon steel is definitely superior in that case. 

Thanks!!  Sounds familiar....... swords and such. 

On the other side of that, stainless steel is much better in it's intended medical environment.  It doesn't rust in contact with bodily fluids (at least not in the time you'd usually use it) and is easier to sterilise and less likely to harbour bugs.  It's meant to cut soft tissue so strength isn't an issue if you're using it properly.  None of which matters to us of course.  I've never managed to get hold of carbon blades and can attest that stainless blades snap and ping easily if you use too much pressure.

Thanks!  I know what you mean... both of my two "go-to" blade/handle combos are missing their tips. Messes up me tape if I don't remember to hold them a certain way.  In fact, this is what spurred the purchase; I got tired of fiddling with these things I have now. I've started using blades much more in general, as well. I've found ways to shave off (NYUK NYUK NYUK!!)  time in PSR by using them in places I had been using files and sanding paper before.

[NARSES2]

I've started using blades much more in general, as well. I've found ways to shave off (NYUK NYUK NYUK!!)  time in PSR by using them in places I had been using files and sanding paper before.

Sharp blades can also be used to scrape seams and burrs and other things as well mate, can save time and can also be targeted quite well. Just make sure the blades are sharp and let them do the work. Always remember blunt blades of any kind can be dangerous in sometimes unexpected ways. We know sharp blades are, so tend to treat them with more respect.

[Old Wombat]

1 x Academy 1/35 Warrior MCV, Iraq 2003, including complete Accurate Armour interior upgrade set (A088 - Warrior Interior Set #1, Section Vehicle (Early)) for $75 ... BARGAIN!

[The Wooksta!]

Various decals off ebay.

And I'm not quite sure how to say this, but I'm claiming it's an addition as I didn't know I had it.  I had to strip a Revell Hunter FGA9 of the revised Sabrinas with teh chaff dispensers, only to find a second Hunter in the same Revell box, both being part started with the cockpit painted, a bag with part painted Aeroclub bang seats and  - best of all - an Aeroclub HUnter F1-F5 conversion!  The jetpipe is definitely falling into rubber!

What's got me puzzled is where did I get it?  I've a feeling I ought what I thought were a pair of Hunters off a mate a few years back (F6 and FGA9) and this is one of them.