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Thinking tanks

Started by PR19_Kit, November 08, 2020, 07:54:53 AM

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PR19_Kit

It's got tracks!  ;D



I was pretty sceptical over Tamiya's claim that normal plastic glue would glue the tracks together, but it worked, and they're on now. I had to adjust the front idler wheels out a tad to make them tight enough, but they look pretty good. The instructions say not to glue the top idler wheels in place, but why not? If I don't they just fall off! And they only just touch the tracks anyway, so gluing them in place really shouldn't be an issue.

I've also added much of the 'stuff' on the rear panel, and glued it in place, but there's lots more to go on there yet apparently.

After having read all the sage advice given above I've realised I should have probably already painted some of the stuff, but one learns by one's mistakes of course.

And reading the Haynes book on the Challie, it looks like the main road wheels should have 12 holes drilled all the way through them, but the kit doesn't have them. I'm not sure I want to drill 144 small holes in them, so I may just paint the raised bolts/rivets matt black instead. :(

On which point, are tanks painted gloss or matt? Logic says that in the field they'd end up matt anyway, but when they're new, what finish are they please?
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

Gondor

Quote from: PR19_Kit on November 13, 2020, 06:58:32 AM
It's got tracks!  ;D



I was pretty sceptical over Tamiya's claim that normal plastic glue would glue the tracks together, but it worked, and they're on now. I had to adjust the front idler wheels out a tad to make them tight enough, but they look pretty good. The instructions say not to glue the top idler wheels in place, but why not? If I don't they just fall off! And they only just touch the tracks anyway, so gluing them in place really shouldn't be an issue.

I've also added much of the 'stuff' on the rear panel, and glued it in place, but there's lots more to go on there yet apparently.

After having read all the sage advice given above I've realised I should have probably already painted some of the stuff, but one learns by one's mistakes of course.

And reading the Haynes book on the Challie, it looks like the main road wheels should have 12 holes drilled all the way through them, but the kit doesn't have them. I'm not sure I want to drill 144 small holes in them, so I may just paint the raised bolts/rivets matt black instead. :(

On which point, are tanks painted gloss or matt? Logic says that in the field they'd end up matt anyway, but when they're new, what finish are they please?

No, it's not worth drilling out all the holes that Tamya missed. you should be able to remove the drive sprockets and the tracks at the same time which will give you access to the rest of the hull and wheels thanks to the polly caps sandwidged between the two halves of the sprocket.  If not you can always unbold the front ideler and remove parts that way.

Gondor
My Ability to Imagine is only exceeded by my Imagined Abilities

Gondor's Modelling Rule Number Three: Everything will fit perfectly untill you apply glue...

I know it's in a book I have around here somewhere....

scooter

Quote from: PR19_Kit on November 13, 2020, 06:58:32 AM

On which point, are tanks painted gloss or matt? Logic says that in the field they'd end up matt anyway, but when they're new, what finish are they please?

Matt.  Based on my particular experiences with 1:1 scale US tactical vehicles (Humvees, LMTVs, 5ts), they're all either matt NATO Green or Sand CARC.  Nasty stuff that, if you have to paint with it.
The F-106- 26 December 1956 to 8 August 1988
Gone But Not Forgotten

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PR19_Kit

Quote from: Gondor on November 13, 2020, 07:41:45 AM

No, it's not worth drilling out all the holes that Tamya missed. you should be able to remove the drive sprockets and the tracks at the same time which will give you access to the rest of the hull and wheels thanks to the polly caps sandwidged between the two halves of the sprocket.  If not you can always unbold the front ideler and remove parts that way.


Yes Alastair, the tracks come off relatively easily with a bit of stretching, and all the main wheels and sprockets and the front idlers unplug as well, or they do at the moment. When I've got the MASSIVE side skirts glued on there's no chance of course, so they'll have to painted and finished off by then.

But why do they say the upper idler wheels shouldn't be glued in place? It makes no sense.


Quote from: scooter on November 13, 2020, 08:02:58 AM

Matt.  Based on my particular experiences with 1:1 scale US tactical vehicles (Humvees, LMTVs, 5ts), they're all either matt NATO Green or Sand CARC.  Nasty stuff that, if you have to paint with it.


Magic, thanks for that.  :thumbsup:

Yes, two pack paint is really 'orrible to use, you need almost a full HazMat suit to spray it. :(
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

kitnut617

#49
Quote from: scooter on November 13, 2020, 08:02:58 AM
Quote from: PR19_Kit on November 13, 2020, 06:58:32 AM

On which point, are tanks painted gloss or matt? Logic says that in the field they'd end up matt anyway, but when they're new, what finish are they please?

Matt.  Based on my particular experiences with 1:1 scale US tactical vehicles (Humvees, LMTVs, 5ts), they're all either matt NATO Green or Sand CARC.  Nasty stuff that, if you have to paint with it.


As an aside ---

The Brit Army trains at CFB Suffield in the south east corner of Alberta. The area is about the same as Dorset, Devon and a big chunk of Cornwall put together. The ground conditions when wet down there (or anywhere in Alberta for that matter) is referred to as 'Gumbo' and after the troops and tankers had finished the days training, they had to clean all the gumbo off ---  by hand. I had a job to make someones idea work, which was the mechanism for a 'tank wash', it had long pipes set in the floor and hanging off the walls with high pressure nozzles set every three or four feet. Anyway, first time they ran a tank through it covered in gumbo, it worked, it came out sparkling ---I mean as in sparkling clean --- that's because the water pressure was set way, way to high and the tank came out stripped to bare metal ----  not a bit of paint on it   ;D
If I'm not building models, I'm out riding my dirtbike

Steel Penguin

Kit the 12 holes per wheel is a later version of the road wheel  <_<  so drilling isn't needed.
the things you learn, give your mind the wings to fly, and the chains to hold yourself steady
take off and nuke the site form orbit, nope, time for the real thing, CAM and gridfire, call special circumstances. 
wow, its like freefalling into the Geofront
Not a member of the Hufflepuff conspiracy!

PR19_Kit

Quote from: kitnut617 on November 13, 2020, 09:12:09 AM

---I mean as in sparkling clean --- that's because the water pressure was set way, way to high and the tank came out stripped to bare metal ----  not a bit of paint on it   ;D


;D ;D ;D ;D ;D


Quote from: Steel Penguin on November 13, 2020, 09:56:31 AM

Kit the 12 holes per wheel is a later version of the road wheel  <_<  so drilling isn't needed.


Ah right, perhaps I didn't read the book too closely. Thanks for that.  :thumbsup:
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

Mossie

Quote from: scooter on November 13, 2020, 08:02:58 AM
Quote from: PR19_Kit on November 13, 2020, 06:58:32 AM

On which point, are tanks painted gloss or matt? Logic says that in the field they'd end up matt anyway, but when they're new, what finish are they please?

Matt.  Based on my particular experiences with 1:1 scale US tactical vehicles (Humvees, LMTVs, 5ts), they're all either matt NATO Green or Sand CARC.  Nasty stuff that, if you have to paint with it.

Not for your current build, but some 50s/60s period finishes were gloss.  Deep Bronze Green that the British army used on Centurions and early Chieftains (and pretty much most vehicles) had a gloss sheen to it.  Another one I can think of is the West German Leopard 1.
I don't think it's nice, you laughin'. You see, my mule don't like people laughin'. He gets the crazy idea you're laughin' at him. Now if you apologize, like I know you're going to, I might convince him that you really didn't mean it.

loupgarou

A little bit late in thinking of it, but the title of this topic "Thinking tanks" is giving me an image of a tank with a naked brain in place of the turret... :o :banghead:
Owing to the current financial difficulties, the light at the end of the tunnel will be turned off until further notice.

PR19_Kit

It looks like a tank now.  ;D



Mind you, that's just the bare bones of it, I've got a small plastic box absolutely STUFFED with sub-assemblies that still need to be fitted, and there's goodness knows how many bits still on the sprues!  :o

I must say it's a pleasure to build a kit where not only do the parts fit properly, but it's almost impossible NOT to get them in the wrong place or the wrong way. Tamiya make little borders around where the surface mounted parts go so you can't get them in the wrong place, or the wrong way round. It's a welcome reliefe from the AZ and the Mach2 kits of this world!  :thumbsup:
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

Old Wombat

Tamiya must have changed the formula of the vinyl they make the tracks from, used to be nothing short of nuclear fusion would fix the ends together.

As said before: Just take the running gear off before painting, Kit, it's no big deal. Post construction painting is the norm for armour.
Has a life outside of What-If & wishes it would stop interfering!

"The purpose of all War is Peace" - St. Augustine

veritas ad mortus veritas est

Steel Penguin

Kit   glad to help.   and I have found that Tamiya do rather spoil you in the ease of assembly, you'd think that they wanted to make the hobby fun  <_<
the things you learn, give your mind the wings to fly, and the chains to hold yourself steady
take off and nuke the site form orbit, nope, time for the real thing, CAM and gridfire, call special circumstances. 
wow, its like freefalling into the Geofront
Not a member of the Hufflepuff conspiracy!

PR19_Kit

I'll have to put some paint on it soon, it's becoming very difficult to photograph it against my friends' carpet!  ;D
Kit's Rule 1 ) Any aircraft can be improved by fitting longer wings, and/or a longer fuselage
Kit's Rule 2) The backstory can always be changed to suit the model

...and I'm not a closeted 'Take That' fan, I'm a REAL fan! :)

Regards
Kit

NARSES2

Got a slightly "Germanic" look in that photo, to my mind at least, to many memories of sand yellow Airfix Panthers and Tigers  :rolleyes:
Do not condemn the judgement of another because it differs from your own. You may both be wrong.

jcf

A Briggs Cunningham stripes paint job would look good.



Especially as the Chally resembles Le Monstre.  ;D