My stash just grew again. (2022)

[DogfighterZen]

If ya need help with building full resin models Zen give us a yell..ive built 9 full resin tanks and trucks and ive got a Legend Maxpro MRAP to build to at some point 
Building tanks and the like will be pretty much the same as building aircraft.
Same prep and glues .

Thanks, mate! 
I know that CA glues are what most use with these parts, it's what i've used on the few resin bits i've used so far. The washing of parts is something i've never done, i normally wipe the parts with a bit of cotton with alcohol and that seems to do the job. If that doesn't work on these parts, i'll throw them in the dishwasher and let it rip...

[Wardukw]

Dishwasher hahahaha ..ok ive never done that   
You can just wash the parts in a sink with some soap..rinse them ..dry em and glue em..easy 
The most time consuming task is cutting the parts from the rubbish ...cutting the parts with a wet saw knocks out any dust and i use like 8 different saws for this from razor saws to a draw blade which mounts in a knife handle and a crap load of knifes blades.
Ya get good at this when you have like 300 + parts to clean 

[Old Wombat]

Hmmm, maybe avoid the dishwasher, unless you enjoy carving shapes out of lumps of fused, slumped resin.

[DogfighterZen]

I know it's not a good idea, it's just the lazy me joking. 
I've always heard that we can use hot water to bend and shape resin parts. That's the advice Reskit's owner gave me for what i'll have to do to the "fabulous" Python missiles that are almost banana shaped...

[NARSES2]

I've always heard that we can use hot water to bend and shape resin parts.

Only if you really have to.

I've built lots of resin kits and to be honest some can be better in terms of fit then some injection moulded plastic. Some on the other hand can make you think you are being punished for some truly awful deed  Also there are different types of resin that manufacturers use. In their most recent kits Planet for instance mould their undercarriage legs in a black resin which is far stronger than their normal tan stuff so as to take the weight of the model.

I think the trick with resin is simply not to be frightened by it. Other than the use of super glue for the bulk of assembly they are not really much different to mainstream kits. I tend to use a 5 min epoxy glue for larger assemblies as it's strong and gives me more time to "play" with fit, but other than that ?

[NARSES2]

Just ordered from BNA Model World:

1 x Eduard 1/48 WWII Japanese Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero Type 21 [ProfiPACK] (ED 82212) - OoB for my Single Engine Fighters Collection

Be interested in your opinion once you get it. It's had rave reviews in the modelling mags.

I'll give you the usual On Request In-Box Review; as always, "When will it be built?" is a question with a very open ended answer.

Cheers mate 

[Old Wombat]

I've always heard that we can use hot water to bend and shape resin parts.

Only if you really have to.

I've built lots of resin kits and to be honest some can be better in terms of fit then some injection moulded plastic. Some on the other hand can make you think you are being punished for some truly awful deed  Also there are different types of resin that manufacturers use. In their most recent kits Planet for instance mould their undercarriage legs in a black resin which is far stronger than their normal tan stuff so as to take the weight of the model.

I think the trick with resin is simply not to be frightened by it. Other than the use of super glue for the bulk of assembly they are not really much different to mainstream kits. I tend to use a 5 min epoxy glue for larger assemblies as it's strong and gives me more time to "play" with fit, but other than that ?

You can also use 2-part epoxy adhesives (like Araldite), which are better than CA, but you need a LOT of patience if you go down that route.

[NARSES2]

I've always heard that we can use hot water to bend and shape resin parts.

Only if you really have to.

I've built lots of resin kits and to be honest some can be better in terms of fit then some injection moulded plastic. Some on the other hand can make you think you are being punished for some truly awful deed  Also there are different types of resin that manufacturers use. In their most recent kits Planet for instance mould their undercarriage legs in a black resin which is far stronger than their normal tan stuff so as to take the weight of the model.

I think the trick with resin is simply not to be frightened by it. Other than the use of super glue for the bulk of assembly they are not really much different to mainstream kits. I tend to use a 5 min epoxy glue for larger assemblies as it's strong and gives me more time to "play" with fit, but other than that ?

You can also use 2-part epoxy adhesives (like Araldite), which are better than CA, but you need a LOT of patience if you go down that route.

That's what I meant mate, forgot the 2 part bit ! Brain's not having a good day  I find the 5 minute 2-part good, especially for larger structural parts.

[Old Wombat]

'S OK, I completely missed that you'd mentioned epoxy glues. Guess we're both getting old.

[Gondor]

Received a spur of the moment purchace from eBay today

1 x 1/72 Aeroclub Canberra PR.3/PR.7 conversion set. Actually a no brainer as you hardly ever see one and it was available as buy-it-now so I did 

Gondor

[Wardukw]

Age is just a number ..or physical condition ..for im going with option 2   
I use 5 min epoxy for the big stuff and CA for the small to medium sized bits ..also i saw a CA setting solution to help set the glue super fast for very annoying bits like photo etch.
I only use super sharp drill bits too..either powered or nonpowered..tan or gray resin is very soft so its easy to drill by hand..as Chris said ..black resin is much harder and if ya gotta drill it take your sweet time..it will crack quite easily.
I did a commission build for a chap of the Hobby Boss M1070/M1000 Oshkosh tank transporter in 35th scale..all wheels were replaced with resin.
I used the tractor wheel set from E T model and for the trailer i used Real Model and had to drill out all the centers for the trailer wheels..all 57 of them and the 9 for the tractor..damn that was a mess around my drill press 
As part payment he gave me a brand new kit of the same model..a $350 price tag at the time 

[Wardukw]

Very nice score Gondor mate 
Ive always wanted the B57 / Canberra with those massively extended wings..a very ugly plane and i like that..the want is still there just not the ability to put it anywhere 

[DogfighterZen]

I've never used the 2 part epoxy so i guess i'll have to buy some. I also have to buy a good CA glue...
Don't know if i'll have to drill anything on the resin kits i have but i guess that if i do, i'll be very careful.

[Wardukw]

Get the 2 part epoxy in the twin tubes with one plunger..super easy to use and as for CA ..i use Zap..but any quality CA will work fine and ya fav LHS should have it 
Martin whe has a youtube channel called Nightshift ( very good dude ) uses this black CA ..i want to try that ..its so good to work with and i want some .

[NARSES2]

'S OK, I completely missed that you'd mentioned epoxy glues. Guess we're both getting old.

Yup