"Caçador" - Hawker Hunter in the PoAF - FINISHED - PAG.7

[DogfighterZen]

Hey, look! It's Douglas Bader!

I guess he's the model for most of my pilot figures in 1/72 then.

[zenrat]

Hey, look! It's Douglas Bader!

Didn't he have his off above the knee?

[PR19_Kit]

One above and one below IIRC.

[NARSES2]

We had a lad at school who was an amputee. One of our masters, ex RAF Bomber Command, knew Bader and arranged a meeting with the lad. He came away from it a totally different character and was very soon just one of the boys.  Only downside was I kicked him playing playground football once and got the artificial leg, thought I'd broken my foot. No sympathy either 

[DogfighterZen]

Wow... it's almost been a whole month since last update on this one...

Well, it's been getting some attention... After closing up the fuselage, i filled some minor gaps with some Sprue Goo and after it dried, rescribed the panel lines along the seam. Painted the splitter plates, fuselage and wings around the intake area with some Tamiya XF-2 flat white and now i'm ready to move on with the build.

[Tophe]

rescribed the panel lines

Wow! Congratulations for such energy on details...

[DogfighterZen]

rescribed the panel lines

Wow! Congratulations for such energy on details...

Thanks, Tophe! 
In reality, those were just a few and some of the easiest I've done so far, didn't even have to use a guide for the blade cause i didn't need to sand very much and most of the lines were pretty easy to fix cause the kit fits well and it didn't need much sanding.

[The Wooksta!]

Flaps should be closed.  Everyone seems to do them down for some reason, but they would always be left closed and locked shut.  They didn't droop.  Definitely RAF machines, as pilots would be fined in the Mess if they left them down.  As Mike McEvoy could and did attest to, bless 'im.

If you are insistent on having them open, you'll need to cut out and keep the quarter circle inscribed and glue to the upper wing.  This cutout was to allow them to clear the longer tanks fitted to the FGA9/FR10 and equivalent export machines.

Don't forget to add the small blisters outboard on the wing above the outer station, as this housed a shotgun mechanism to blow off any outer stores and ensure clean separation from the wing.

[DogfighterZen]

Great info! Thanks for the tips, Lee! 
Regarding the flaps and slats, I normally tend to leave them neutral on most of my builds, although some should've been drooped but i've been paying more attention to those details and i've been going with what i see in most pics i find.
It was one of the things I was going to research today before I glue the wings on because, mine will be either ready to start taxiing to the runway or, ready for the take off run so, i want to see what's the configuration they used.

[zenrat]

Good info Lee.  I had been wondering what those cut outs were for.
Guess i'd better glue the flaps on before I paint it eh.

[PR19_Kit]

Don't forget to add the small blisters outboard on the wing above the outer station, as this housed a shotgun mechanism to blow off any outer stores and ensure clean separation from the wing.

Oh yes, my employers made a programmer to reproduce that shock load to prove that the stores wouldn't be damaged (or ignite....) when ejected.

Sometimes they even passed the test........... 

[DogfighterZen]

So, this one has been slowly moving forward...
One thing i'm finding with this kit is that the molds are starting to show some problems. I wonder if any of you have found these problems on your kits of the Revell 1/72 Hunter, as i've not seen them mentioned on any of the builds on this GB.

The wing tip parts are a bit thicker than the wing and some light sink marks were showing...


Same on the underside of the wings...


I also found sink marks on the F.6's exhaust parts... Seems to me that future releases of this kit will have these issues becoming worse, don't you guys think?
It's a shame cause it's the best Hunter kit of this scale and who knows when will we have a more recent tooling of this plane...
Anyway, i've got the wings glued on but i still have to sand down the wing tips to get them flush with the rest of the wings' surfaces, top an bottom.



 

[Gondor]

I know of the wing tip issue and have mentioned elsewhere about it. I packed out the part with a plastic shim to save on the sanding, this does not mean that there will be no sanding as you say filler is needed partly due to all the wing parts not exactly fitting perfectly together includeing the dog tooth.

Gondor

[DogfighterZen]

I know of the wing tip issue and have mentioned elsewhere about it. I packed out the part with a plastic shim to save on the sanding, this does not mean that there will be no sanding as you say filler is needed partly due to all the wing parts not exactly fitting perfectly together includeing the dog tooth.

Gondor

I obviously missed that bit but still, it's nothing too bad and still a shame that such a great kit has these issues.
But i guess folks like us are used to this type of thing and not afraid of the work needed to get it solved.

[The Wooksta!]

I've had that problem with every sodding Revell Hunter I've built.  There is a way round it, I just can't remember what it is.