RAF Cargomaster

[NARSES2]

For some completely daft reason, ie: none whatsoever, I see a Reban sitting in one of those seats   

[PR19_Kit]

For some completely daft reason, ie: none whatsoever, I see a Reban sitting in one of those seats   

Hehehe, and why not? 

Maybe Nonobar can print me up a couple in RAF uniforms? 

[NARSES2]

For some completely daft reason, ie: none whatsoever, I see a Reban sitting in one of those seats   

Hehehe, and why not? 

Maybe Nonobar can print me up a couple in RAF uniforms? 

Have one on exchange Kit 

[Rick Lowe]

I've got the cockpit glued up and painted, as well as it could be, but 1/144 cockpits are MINUTE!

  In any case very little of it will be visible through the windscreen anyway.

Why do we do that to ourselves? Make up and paint all this detail that has a high likelihood of never being visible?
'So it's not just a blank, unpainted interior, just in case you can see it after all.'
'It's good practice for the next one you can see.'

I can hear all of the excuses coming from my own mouth, and indeed I am pretty sure I've used one or two in my time...

[scooter]

I've got the cockpit glued up and painted, as well as it could be, but 1/144 cockpits are MINUTE!

  In any case very little of it will be visible through the windscreen anyway.

Why do we do that to ourselves? Make up and paint all this detail that has a high likelihood of never being visible?
'So it's not just a blank, unpainted interior, just in case you can see it after all.'
'It's good practice for the next one you can see.'

I can hear all of the excuses coming from my own mouth, and indeed I am pretty sure I've used one or two in my time...

That's why if I can't see the cockpit/interior when the whole model is dry fitted, the windscreen gets blacked out.

[Steel Penguin]

most resin wargames models are solid resin,  gloss black, or blue is a perfect thing     

[Rick Lowe]

I picked up a 1/72 resin TIE Fighter once (1995), and spent an inordinate amount of time and blisters drilling out the cockpit.
By hand I might add, as this was in the days before my electric drill.
Then I put it aside and haven't gotten back to it yet... oy...

[Old Wombat]

I really dislike blanked out cockpits &, as a point of honour, if nothing else, I always do the interiors (where supplied, & sometimes where not supplied, if I even think I might be able to see inside).

[Rick Lowe]

It's good practice - and fun, which is the object of the exercise, as I keep having to remind myself!

[Weaver]

If you do do a blanked out cockpit, paint the inside of the glass black, not the outside. This is how real glass looks in the right light anyway, i.e. with light reflections from the "glossy" glass and deep shadow inside it.

If you can't paint the inside of the glass, then if possible, paint the inside of a piece of thin clear plastic and stick it in the window position, if the latter is recessed. If it isn't recessed, and it's a scratch/sci-fi build, then add surrounding detai lto make it look recessed.

If you can't do the painted stick-on-plastic technique (because the window is curved, for instance) then paint it with black followed by several thick coats of gloss varnish.

[PR19_Kit]

In moments of madness I think of sawing out the large cargo door that's forward  on the port side of the Cargomaster.

And then sanity prevailed and I drew up the door's outline for the decal sheet.

But I am still thinking about doing it................... 

[sandiego89]

I too thought armrests on 1/144 seats was absurd.  I didn't put them on my C-133.  Poor crew won't have their ashtrays! 

[Rick Lowe]

If you do do a blanked out cockpit, paint the inside of the glass black, not the outside. This is how real glass looks in the right light anyway, i.e. with light reflections from the "glossy" glass and deep shadow inside it.

If you can't paint the inside of the glass, then if possible, paint the inside of a piece of thin clear plastic and stick it in the window position, if the latter is recessed. If it isn't recessed, and it's a scratch/sci-fi build, then add surrounding detai lto make it look recessed.

If you can't do the painted stick-on-plastic technique (because the window is curved, for instance) then paint it with black followed by several thick coats of gloss varnish.

Or if it's something sci-fi, just paint it on anyway and call it a specialised, high-tech material rather than mere 'glass'; so it doesn't matter which way you do it...   

[zenrat]

Hasegawa make a mirrored mylar film.  Its got a good deal of stretch so it is possible one could smooth it over the inside of a canopy or glazing to give an effective mirrored effect.

[Nick]

I have painted the inside of canopies on some of my 1/144 models purely because there's nothing to see inside and I'm not fiddling about with teeny weeny pieces more than I have to!

Silver is my preferred colour. Black stands out more on a grey or camo kit.