Junkyard Dog

[kerick]

I've got a little UV flashlight that takes about three minutes to fully cure the resin. Get a bigger light if you can find one. The little thing they sell at the craft stores isn't worth the powder it takes to blow it to, well you know. Sunlight is the best but not always available.

Working on the guns still. The M60s are done shields and all. I need to assemble the RWS and the M9 dozer blade. I found this etched brass set of little connectors on sale at the hobby shop. It's made to connect brass tubing into various positions. Some of the parts might make good radio antennas but the spaces left after cutting out the connectors might make digital camo masks. Painting this contraption will be interesting!

[Rick Lowe]

As the resin is UV-curing, how much working time do you have with it?
Or is it better under artificial light? I would imagine the container has to be opaque, and preferably kept in a dark place?

[kerick]

The working time is unlimited as long as there is no UV light. Flouresent and LED do give off some UV but not enough to do anything. Sunlight working time is virtually zero. I like to fill the mold inside and then step out to the sunlight to cure.
The bottle is solid black so it is ok setting on the desk.

[Rick Lowe]

OK, that's useful information - thanks.

I was considering getting more 2-part poly resin, but this looks like a better option.
Do you have to use something like talc, to get the resin to wick into small cavities in the mould, or will poking it with a toothpick or similar do the job?

[kerick]

I've been using silicone mold making material from Aluminite. Mold release agent has not been required. I used a toothpick to get the UV resin into the really tight spots. Too much stirring around will cause bubbles. I haven't tried talc as you suggest. If that works let me know, that would be useful. I've found it works best for shallow molds. Deeper ones work better with a two step pour. And this stuff is cheap enough that if one cast comes out bad it's easy to make another.

[Rick Lowe]

All good and useful info, thanks.

[kerick]

BTW, I've used a drop of uv resin to fill bubble holes and my usual Bondo spot putty and both work fine.

[Rick Lowe]

 

[Spino]

Well a remote turret would have been nice but it'll look interesting none the less.

[kerick]

The remote station is still in the plan. I've finished the M60s. I'm still debating on whether to put another gun on the commanders hatch. Here's the finished M60s before and after paint.







Two different shields in keeping with the scrap heap nature of this monster. I finally just stuck the ammo can holder to the side of the gun. I couldn't figure out what else to do and it was holding up everything else.









I figured who ever was building this might not have enough steel to make all the shields the same but would at least have one big bucket of paint.
If I had rummaged around a little more I would have found this sooner. I could make several more shields out of this. Look familiar Jeff?



Been working on the M9 dozer blade. Almost done. Its not the greatest kit but not the worst either. The main problem is the ejector pin marks but most of them are in hard to see spots or standing proud and easy to trim.

[kerick]

Dozer blade is finished but doesn't move up and down the full travel. No problem unless I take it out to the sand box!
I started the RWS so about halfway on that.
Still messing around with the radio antennas.

[NARSES2]

Progress 

[kerick]

I finally glued on the dozer blade.    I had to remove some plastic to clear the tracks but it won't be very noticeable. Glued on some other bit and pieces. Lots more periscopes now. I hope and pray I can get some paint on this tonight. We are leaving on a trip with friends to a lake in Arkansas on Thursday so of course dumb things have popped up. The shutoff valve for the toliet upstairs has started leaking. So wasted time going to the hardware store for a new valve and other supplies to fix it. I already had to replace the tub spout a couple of days ago as it was leaking onto the basement floor every time someone used the shower.
So here's a pic of the beast now.

[Rick Lowe]

I shaould have asked, is the resin the same stuff as used in the printers?
Cos I can only find that in larger (and more expensive) bottles than I will use.
Or is there a cheaper, smaller quantity option?

No rush on the reply, other things are taking priority and you need that break; after you get back is fine. 

[kerick]

No problem.
The UV resin I use is from a craft store like Hobby Lobby or Micheal's in my area. It comes in a 4 oz bottle. There are little clear silicone molds for making jewelry and such. I believe it was about $12 or so.